Jump to content

[TR] Eldorado - NW Couloir 5/25/2009


davidk

Recommended Posts

Trip: Eldorado - NW Couloir

 

Date: 5/25/2009

 

Trip Report:

Despite repeated proclamations by both Kevin and I over the past few months that "it's rock season now," we nonetheless found ourselves jonesing for some steep snow/ice. Conditions looked good leading up to Memorial Day weekend, so we decided to have a go at the NW Couloir route on Eldorado. The other TRs on here of previous climbs of the route were all in October or November, so we were a bit skeptical as to the relative amounts of snow and ice we would encounter.

 

The Eldorado plateau was a zoo over the weekend, but there was plenty of space for everyone to play. Kevin, Peter, and I hiked in on Sunday afternoon to a bivy at the base of the east ridge. Shoutout to the cute climbing ranger, Erin, who we met on the way up. :wave:

 

DSCN2847.JPG

We got up at the crack of dawn and set off across the Inspiration Glacier. We followed the approach detailed in AlpineDave's TR: rap/downclimb the obvious gully at the base of Eldorado's north ridge (between Eldorado and Dean's Spire). A single 30m rap from a fixed pin at the top of the gully got us to snow that we could downclimb. (In late fall parties make 2-3 raps)

 

Traversing the Inspiration in the morning

DSCN2861.JPG

Coming up to the gully to cross to Eldorado's west side

DSCN2864.JPG

Kevin rapping as Peter downclimbs. Note the second rap station with blue webbing at right-center (a little hard to see).

DSCN2869.JPG

After traversing back towards Eldorado's west face for about 200 yards, we got a glimpse up the route. Boy did we score! :rocken:

DSCN2870.JPG

The route had two sizable steps of water ice (grade 2/3) separated by a bomber alpine ice luge track. The top 200-300 feet consisted of steep, soft snow. The walls of the couloir were guarded by steep and deep snow, making it hard to access the rock for pro. Plus, most cracks were iced up, so we only bothered with rock placements for belays.

 

Kevin leading up the first water ice step

DSCN2874.JPG

In the luge track: firm snow and alpine ice made for quick movement

DSCN2875.JPG

Kevin leads up the second water ice step while Peter intercepts falling ice and I belay

DSCN2876.JPG

Looking down the couloir

DSCN2877.JPG

After the second ice step we simul-soloed the steep snow to the top of the couloir. Peter topping out:

DSCN2879.JPG

A quick trip up the knife-edge staircase of the east ridge got us to the summit, just under six hours after leaving camp.

DSCN2882.JPG

DSCN2895.JPG

 

So our suspicions that this would make a good spring route proved true, and we were rewarded with excellent conditions and super fun climbing. Props to Peter - this was his first time ever on ice, and he did well.

 

Gear Notes:

60m rope

2 screws (10 cm and 16cm) - could have used 1-2 more

cams BD #1&2; yellow and orange TCUs; red Mastercam; set of nuts - used most cams, no nuts

1 picket - came in handy for one belay

 

Approach Notes:

Snow from about 4500+ feet up. Skis are highly recommended - we didn't use any flotation, and put in enough postholes for a border fence.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 30
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

FUN! The route, despite the slogging, was well worth it.

 

DSCN0419.JPG

 

Sweet bivy looking at our climb from last year:

 

DSCN0431.JPG

 

David striking a pose in the morning sun...or zipping up his pants?

DSCN0438.JPG

 

I'm starting to think the N cascades are a little more photogenic than my home playground of the stuarts

DSCN0440.JPG

 

Cramped belay. However the grim faces are probably from them realizing that I am going to shower them with ice and snow

DSCN0445.JPG

 

Cruising the alpine ice chute

DSCN0447.JPG

 

Extreme camera tilt! In the wrong direction!

 

DSCN0449.JPG

 

 

Joke of the trip:

Whats the difference between David and a blue bag?

 

 

The blue bag is actually going home with the ranger! :lmao:

 

 

Edited by kevino
Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the AM when we saw you heading to the col we were wondering if there would be enough ice or where else you'd be heading (Was scrambling on the Towers). Wasn't thinking the ice would be in. And nice timing popping up right ahead of us up the knife edge. Glad the summit shot came out and thanks for taking ours.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Eiji,

Great seeing you guys out there as well! Sorry about the ice, but we all lost when that really big one came down from above (my left elbow is nice and swollen from a softball of ice). We have a few pics of you guys, PM me if you want them.

 

There were only two teams on it, but about 100 people on the east ridge!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Friggin gorgeous pics! I need to stay away from this site this time of year because it makes me really miss the Cascades.

 

Been dying to get some alpine action but the wx is going to be crap the next two days. Mtn biking on the western slope it is then.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We did the Eldo approach. All snow from about 4500 - 5000 ft. Basically, the first boulder field is snow-free. Then above that, we got on the avalanche debri field on the climbers right, which was hard and compact, then at about the 5000 ft level, mash potato....hit it early in the morning or later in the evening, unless you plan to bring flotation.

 

The route will be in. In the ice pitches, I sunk 13cm screws no problem and even 16 took in few times I used it.

 

I remember the sun hitting the upper parts...above the ice pitches at about 11:30am. That was the first ray of sun while in the couloir, so the route stays in the shade most of the day.

 

Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If anyone is planning on doing it this weekend I would say break it into two days. First day, get to the snow early and/or bring skis. 2nd day, get to the base of the couloir by first light. We topped out of couloir around 1130 and that was too late. The upper part gets baked by the sun and will rain ice, rocks, etc on you, and many can attest it can hurt. Plus the more firm the snow the quicker travel. It gets light around 430 ish, so plan accordingly.

 

That would be my advice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...