Greg_W Posted May 30, 2002 Share Posted May 30, 2002 Looking for a partner to head up to 3 O'Clock Rock on Sunday. Weather is supposed to be good. Send me a PM or an e-mail, gwall@constructivision.com if you're interested. Greg W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 Greg - Did you find a partner for Sunday. I might be interested though I'd be more interested in Blueberry Hill than Three O'Clock Rock. -- Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted May 31, 2002 Author Share Posted May 31, 2002 Matt; No takers yet. I am open to anything; I am more familiar with 3:00. Let me know what you want to do: gwall@constructivision.com Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 Hmmmm...Mattp has much good climbing up his sleeve on Blueberry Hill. Go with him there Greg, you will have a good time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted May 31, 2002 Author Share Posted May 31, 2002 quote: Originally posted by dberdinka: Hmmmm...Mattp has much good climbing up his sleeve on Blueberry Hill. Go with him there Greg, you will have a good time. Thanks for the tip, I'm workin' it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted May 31, 2002 Share Posted May 31, 2002 Be sure to bring rap rings and webbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 3, 2002 Share Posted June 3, 2002 On Sunday, June 2, Gregw, Mattp, Matt, and Partner climbed on Bluebery Hill. The weather was good, and the "Granite Sidewalk" was almost dry. Here's Gregw, leading the fourth pitch of the West Buttress route: After that lead, we simu-lclimbed about 350 feet to the Blueberry Terrace, walked down around the corner and headed up toward the top on some run out but gradually easing climbing. Here's Gregw topping out, about 100 feet below the summit of Exfoliation Dome: Matt Heller (Matt on CascadeClimbers.com) and his partner climbed a more challenging line nearby. Here's Matt on lead: Also on the dome was DavidW, with his partner "the safety man." We never saw them, however, because they were on the "backside." Exfoliation dome makes a great climb, involving full on mountain climbing skills in addition to multi-pitch rock climbing (the easiest route is nine pitches long on top of over a thousand feet of scrambling). The climbing is spectacular and the views magnificent, but be prepared for run-out slab, wet moss, loose rock, routefinding issues, and missing rappel stations. A good time was had by all. [ 06-03-2002, 10:06 AM: Message edited by: mattp ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted June 3, 2002 Share Posted June 3, 2002 quote: Originally posted by mattp: Exfoliation dome makes a great climb, involving full on mountain climbing skills in addition to multi-pitch rock climbing (the easiest route is nine pitches long on top of over a thousand feet of scrambling). The climbing is spectacular and the views magnificent, but be prepared for run-out slab, wet moss, loose rock, routefinding issues, and missing rappel stations. A good time was had by all. hearing that makes me quiver....... nice work boyz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted June 3, 2002 Share Posted June 3, 2002 quote: Originally posted by mattp: The climbing is spectacular and the views magnificent, but be prepared for run-out slab, wet moss, loose rock, routefinding issues, and missing rappel stations. A good time was had by all. For how long will you mislead the masses? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rr666 Posted June 3, 2002 Share Posted June 3, 2002 Climbing up at Blueberry hill yesterday with Matt was just great!!! Good times were really had by all. The area is beautiful, the granite is solid, the climbing wonderful. The long approach slabs and the few mossy spots on top were easily forgotten. Getting up there was well worth it!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted June 3, 2002 Author Share Posted June 3, 2002 Blueberry Hill rocks!! The West Buttress route is non-stop fun (even the runout parts). There is still snow up to the summit, but we had some good looks down the other side onto Witch Doctor Wall. Still a lot of snow on the ground on that side. Great views of Green Giant Buttress up the valley as well. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted June 3, 2002 Share Posted June 3, 2002 Good work guys! Think I'm going to have to make it up there sometime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Schuldt Posted June 3, 2002 Share Posted June 3, 2002 Jeff Hansel and I went to 3:00 rock on Saterday. We climbed Silent Running, the first pitch of the Kone and the first pitch of Tidbits. First pitch of Tidbits needs cleaning at the top and a new bolt or 2. At top of first pitch there is 2 lines of bolts, the ones on the riight are new. With a little scrubbing and a bolt or 2 below the first belay station this would be a great route. It would be nice not to have to trash the aproach gully to get to the first belay. I was not feeling to good so I had some trouble with my head, but managed to have a good time anyway. Saw Dave W. and sisushumi (sp?) A little bit of snow at the bottom of the rock. Bugs are just startinng to come out and feed. Some hikers reported that the trail was passable up to the ridge top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 Dave- It sounds as if you did not climb the first pitch of Tidbits. Instead of "trashing" the approach gully, try the face to the left. That right-hand second pitch (actually the third pitch) is called Gastroblast. Tidbits goes up and left, with fun face climbing using edges and side-pulls. Both climbs need bolts replaced on their fourth pitches. Gastroblast has cool moves on the bulge, eh? Here's the topo. -Matt [ 06-03-2002, 06:30 PM: Message edited by: mattp ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 Half of PubClub was there. We should have hooked up for the "19th pitch." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 mattp, tell davidw and sisu suomi to be there and we will do the 420th pitch upside down sideways. I think I might free solo it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 MattP, Is the third pitch of Tidbits still "old" as the topo says? Seems like I remember good hangers on that section, but maybe it's just me that's old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 quote: Originally posted by mattp: Half of PubClub was there. We should have hooked up for the "19th pitch." Next time... Nice pictures Mattp! When do we see the mini guide to Darrington published in Rock & Ice? Oh, that's right. All the climbs in Darrington have horrendous approaches, wet mossy run out slabs and continually exfoliating flakes. Who wants to climb on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erik: hearing that makes me quiver....... You'll find Blueberry Hill pretty tame if your idea of a good time includes mud-filled chimeys, old bolts in sandstone, and undeveloped crags in Leavenworth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 Al - I'm pretty sure that, as my topo indicates, the fourth pitch of tidbits still remains to have the old bolts replaced. I believe you would find it currently to be VERY run out on VERY old bolts. The third pitch, the one that climbs through "the big A" and the pitch that is the best one on the route, was rebolted about ten years ago. As Dave Schuldt indicated, the second pitch (the first if you take the "approach gully" instead of climbing clean slabs to the left) needs a little attention from a brush saw and scrub brush, and there are one or two old spinners there so rippers would be a good call, but it is in my opinion safe at the moment and the crux bulge is protected by good gear placements. At least one of the old spinners can be backed up with a sling girth hitched on the tree that needs pruning. AlpineK - do you make house calls? - Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidW Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 I've been working on a new Darrington guide for a couple of seasons now. Apparently others are rumored to be involved in the same process but so far its just rumors. Anyway..... my project is an e-book, on a disk with lots of pictures, archives and little movie clips linked to the topo's. I'd welcome all input..... if you've got beta, comments, photo's, complaints, good stories or topo's you'd like to share I'd be very grateful. I plan on including whatever new projects get done this season and have the book ready this time next year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 Dave, An E-guide is a great idea. I recently used Chris McNamara's "Road to Astroman," which can only be bought online and downloaded as a PDF file. Very cool. The guide has great detail and the convenience of being a download was nice-- even nicer because one of my partners paid for it and printed it. The pages fit nicely into a three ring binder and whatever climb we were doing that day was easily removed and folded up in our pocket. I suggest you look at the guides that Chris Mac is publishing and try to replicate his model. I think his website is www.supertopo.com . I don't know how useful video would be, unless you can play it on a Palm or an iPod and anyway who wants to bring a PDA with them into the wilderness. Look forward to seeing the guide! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 The film clips are fun and with a CD (as opposed to a download), there will be plenty of room for frivolity. I don't think he intends them to be much more than entertaining, but they could certainly be that -- imagine, an endlessly repeating loop of Ray on the 420th pitch, that includes a virus such that it fires up on your workstation every day at 4:20. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 Tell Dave to bring his camera this weekend. Doe Total Soul have 420 pitches I guess I'll find out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted June 4, 2002 Share Posted June 4, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Tell Dave to bring his camera this weekend. Doe Total Soul have 420 pitches I guess I'll find out It depends on how high you can climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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