Belay Anchors

[LostCamKenny]

I tell ya... you'd think even the rodents should know better. That's exactly why I didn't girth hitch the little squealer.

What a shot that was... I'm surprised that it didn't dart away the second you got to that point. I cruised a spot when i was in idaho and the little f&%ker couldn't get away from me fast enough. Did it stay there long or was it gone short after the pic was snapped?

[montypiton]

before I switched to climbing almost exclusively on half/twin rope systems, I used to equalize anchors with cordelettes. Now I simply tie each rope to a separate piece, and if the anchor is more than two pieces, I clip to the others with slings. I don't care for the "sliding X", because a shot to any point on the X-sling toasts the entire anchor. (unlikely, I know, but why allow the possibility?) AMGA advocates tieing a hard knot at the power point when using a single long sling to equalize load among anchor elements, for precisely this reason. I can chop any of my anchor points and remain attached to all the others. Another tool I use is what I call my PAPA (Personal Anchor Prussik Attachment): this is a variation on the "Purcell Prussik" popularized by the Rigging for Rescue folks. It's a cord tied into a prussik-upon-itself that lives on my harness like a daisy chain. Girth-hitched to my tie-in point, it offers two adjustable clip-in loops which can be clipped to a single anchor point, or to separate points to equalize them. Tied from 7mm or larger accessory cord, the loop provides belay-anchor-strength, and the prussik can slide to absorb shock in event of a severe load. Tieing in either with the two belay ropes, or with PAPA, I can equalize two anchor points without burning any extra slingage, leaving my cordelettes free for building hauling/rescue systems, or cutting up for rappel anchors when I epic, as I often do.

[sean_beanntan]

Cool thanks for the PAPA info. The only issue with your anchor for my climbing is that in the event of having to escape the belay to help your partner, its gets a little more complicated and time consuming. But then again how many times does that really happen. I also tend to multipitch in blocks so I would still need a power point for my belayer

[LostCamKenny]

before I switched to climbing almost exclusively on half/twin rope systems, I used to equalize anchors with cordelettes. Now I simply tie each rope to a separate piece, and if the anchor is more than two pieces, I clip to the others with slings. I don't care for the "sliding X", because a shot to any point on the X-sling toasts the entire anchor. (unlikely, I know, but why allow the possibility?) AMGA advocates tieing a hard knot at the power point when using a single long sling to equalize load among anchor elements, for precisely this reason. I can chop any of my anchor points and remain attached to all the others. Another tool I use is what I call my PAPA (Personal Anchor Prussik Attachment): this is a variation on the "Purcell Prussik" popularized by the Rigging for Rescue folks. It's a cord tied into a prussik-upon-itself that lives on my harness like a daisy chain. Girth-hitched to my tie-in point, it offers two adjustable clip-in loops which can be clipped to a single anchor point, or to separate points to equalize them. Tied from 7mm or larger accessory cord, the loop provides belay-anchor-strength, and the prussik can slide to absorb shock in event of a severe load. Tieing in either with the two belay ropes, or with PAPA, I can equalize two anchor points without burning any extra slingage, leaving my cordelettes free for building hauling/rescue systems, or cutting up for rappel anchors when I epic, as I often do.

 

Since I haven't used twins more than a couple of times it took me a moment to picture what you're describing, but from the sound of it simplicity seems to be the major benefit. It uses less gear at the anchor and is just as redundant as other anchor set-ups... Probably takes less time. You're talking about it so it must be working well for you - maybe I'll have to try it out sometime. What diameter twins do you use?

[shaoleung]

Cool thanks for the PAPA info. The only issue with your anchor for my climbing is that in the event of having to escape the belay to help your partner, its gets a little more complicated and time consuming. But then again how many times does that really happen. I also tend to multipitch in blocks so I would still need a power point for my belayer

 

Seriously - Check out the John Long book and the equalette. It's fast and often times you don't have to adjust anything in order to change positions/swing leads while maintaining beautiful equalization. I'm an anchor geek, but it can afford you more time to appreciate where you are or speed things up if you're on a long line.

[shaoleung]

I tell ya... you'd think even the rodents should know better. That's exactly why I didn't girth hitch the little squealer.

What a shot that was... I'm surprised that it didn't dart away the second you got to that point. I cruised a spot when i was in idaho and the little f&%ker couldn't get away from me fast enough. Did it stay there long or was it gone short after the pic was snapped?

 

Yeah, this little guy wasn't too concerned about me. He wouldn't let me get too close to him, but I think he knew I wasn't in an attack position. I actually did my best to scare him away by yelling profanities at him interspersed with declarations of my status as an instructor with the mounties. I was worried he'd start chewing on my anchor. He darted around and the anchor was left unharmed.

[montypiton]

LCK - The last few pairs of twin/half ropes I've owned have been right at about 8mm...

[matt_warfield]

 

Maybe if you built simpler anchors you would get off the climb before dark.

 

Simpler anchors? This was quite simple, fox. Maybe you and Matt_warfield could come up with an AMGA certified anchor pic and demonstrate to the rest of us the err of my ways, not that you're diagram wasn't pretty. If so many disagree with my set-up then post a pic with one that is more acceptable... In that spot I made the best with what I had and what I had worked out really well. Besides, if it was a choice between what I set up and nothing I'd definitely do it again!

 

I am not trying to say your anchor was bad as results vary anchor by anchor but was just trying to say that anybody that needs help building a good one can benefit from professional or highly experienced advice. Peace.

 

And sometimes the anchors are built before dawn in the dark in lightning territory. But I won't quibble with the fox because he could get in the henhouse.

 

Matt

[NoahT]

and how do you guys do it. are you using cordelete ( what im leaning toward) slings the climbing rope, etc.

 

 

The dynamic properties of cordelette or your rope are nice to incorporate into your anchor, vs just spectra slings or whatever. It's good to know how to build 1000 different anchors out everything from a pink tricam to your chalk bag, but some good advice might be try to avoid being creative 9 times out of 10. Pick a simple, fast and bomber way (a couple pieces, equalized cord with a power point), and that should suffice most of the time. Go to the store, buy 30 ft of 7mm, cut it in half, tie each piece in a loop with double-fishermen, and you have plenty of cord for two anchors most of the time.

 

Then replace that cord early and often, and chop it up when you need rap tat.

 

Cheers,

 

N

[BirdDog]

The dynamic properties of cordelette or your rope are nice to incorporate into your anchor, vs just spectra slings or whatever. you need rap tat.

 

Agree with everything you say, except I doubt you'll get much "dynamic properties" from a short cordelette that's looped all over and tied off with a figure eight.