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Wesley Laws

Advice Climbing Hood Southside 05/15-17

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I'm thinking its not looking so hot for this weekend, the weather is suppose to be sunny, but the avy danger looks fairly high. Weather report is calling for another ten inches of snow this week with the FL at 7000. Friday and through the weekend is calling for a warming period, FL at 12300.

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Just because the FL is at 7000' does not mean it will snow. Lower elevation weather patterns sometimes goes right around the mountain (like a doughnut), only leaving precip at lower levels, and leave the upper parts without.

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We could post any news on this thread. I've got a small team looking at conditions all week. Oh well...If it's a bust, maybe we can drink together at the Ice Axe.

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I read both your past Tr's. This is the year I'm learning how to tele - We have to go if your serious about the camel lights, PBR, and gaterade. Anyway - are you hitting Hood this weekend?

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I read both your past Tr's. This is the year I'm learning how to tele - We have to go if your serious about the camel lights, PBR, and gaterade. Anyway - are you hitting Hood this weekend?

 

I am planning on hitting it up, and most likely on Saturday. The weather looks like it's going to be great!

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I'm partial to bush light. A tub of that before leaving t-line always gets me of on the right foot.

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I read both your past Tr's. This is the year I'm learning how to tele - We have to go if your serious about the camel lights, PBR, and gaterade. Anyway - are you hitting Hood this weekend?

 

I am planning on hitting it up, and most likely on Saturday. The weather looks like it's going to be great!

 

You see an orange MH shell on a sled going about 85; stop me for a beer then!

 

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I'm partial to bush light.

 

yuck.

 

You're just young. Wait till you get older, and you stand there looking at the beer isle and say: "Hmmm... I could buy a six pack of this overly malted, overly hopped BS beer that will make me thirsty after I drink it, or I could buy a 12 pack of something that will actually quench my thirst for the same amount of money..."

 

That's how stuff like PBR and Busch wins the argument most of the times. Plus, drinking a Pale Ale on a hot day these days makes me throw up a little in my mouth... :(

 

(Not to mention, for some reason micro brews always leave a way WORSE hangover than the cheap shit.)

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Sounds like this past weekend was pretty bad with the icefall. Good thing we didn't go.. We are planning for next Monday and Tuesday. We are planning on camping, any advice on where to camp above palmer? Would like to be out of the wind, but most of the times thats not possible. It will be probably crowded this weekend, but hopefully Tuesday will be manageable.

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Is there a rock route at Ill-rock? We noticed a couple people that camped were walking on the east of the rock looking to climb? Sounds great; if anyone has info on this......

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yes, several routes - there's info on the board here if you poke around for it - a bit of beta in olson portland rock guide as well - more mixed kinda ground at this moment though i'd reckon :)

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Hey Guys, Saw the comments about I-Rock. Camped out there Friday night and it was sweetness.

Like Ivan says careful where you get your snow from!

Here are some images from the Rock.

 

 

DSCF0041.jpgDSCF0023.jpgDSCF0130.jpgDSCF0089.jpg

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a cool camp fo'shizzle - in proper storm conditions the little notch where you begin the descent to the reid takes on a life of its own, blowing like a locomotive, hard enough to blast you to your knees - in storms like that, even if you're down in the calm of the bowl, spindrift catchingon i-rock and sloughing down onto you makes waking up to dig yourself out every 2 hours or so mandatory, unless you like being in a collapsing coffin!

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Thanks for the pics Highlander.. Is that little dot on the third pic the notch you are speaking of Ivan? It looks like a tent in there.

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That's one of those Frozen Poo's that Ivan mentioned! ;-)

 

We camped at the saddle with the intention of climbing Reid, there was way to much ice action for our liking so we ended up doing WCR instead! That shot is from our traverse back to camp after coming down off the Hogsback!

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Highlander, what route did you take when you camped at I-rock? If we do camp at I rock should we ascend to the left of crater rock or traverse below crater rock and ascend from there? We want to the SS old chute route.

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yup, that's their tent and a cool, sheltered place it is - from there it's simplest, if you want to climb the s side, to go up left of crater rock and finish however you like - you can just traverse and extra 15 minutes or so though and link up w/ the dog-track to the right of the crater

 

the cool thing about a camp at illum gap notch is the ease w/ which you can navigate back in a total whiteout from the summit w/ just an altimeter - take note of the altitude at the notch, then on return from the summit, feel your way to hogsback, feel you way skiers left around crater rock, then just keep looking at your watch as you traverse down to camp - if you go to high, you hit the castle crags wall which funnels you down to camp - if too low, you hit i-rock itself and just hike back up - that whole side of the mtn is a giant handrail w/ a tiny crack in it where you camp goes :)

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Again as Ivan stated, out of camp you want to head back to the east for either the WCR or South side boot pack.

If you are looking to do the WCR (nice variation from the dog route) stay to the (Climbers) left of Crater Rock. From here it is a straight shot up through the obvious gully to the old chute. you will be on the left side of the fumaroles and hogsback.

 

Other wise out of camp head east around the bottom of Crater rock until you hook up with the others heading to the Hogsback.

 

Here are two photos, first is a shot looking up WCR route, through the gully with the Old Chute in the background.

Second is the nice view of the hogs back you get once you clear the fumaroles!

 

DSCF00161.jpg

DSCF0106.jpg

 

 

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