Second Ice Tool

[TarHeelEMT]

So... background:

 

Trad climber making the jump to alpine. Did a month-long NOLS mountaineering course and spent a week with Alpine Ascents on their intermediate mountaineering course. I'm coming up on my last ever summer break and intend to spend most of it in the Cascades climbing and living out of my truck to get as good at alpine climbing as I can.

 

Other than some basic practice ice climbing, I haven't really had an opportunity to use two tools, although this summer I definitely anticipate climbing routes where two tools will be a must.

 

So... a few questions:

 

My standard ice axe paired with a specialized ice tool is probably the best combo for alpine climbing, correct?

 

I saw this:

ice tool

It's well-reviewed, on sale, and seems like it would fit well in the ice axe/ice tool pairing.

Is this a good buy?

 

Does it make sense to just buy one of the ice tool, or is it short-sighted to just buy one? If I get into more technical ice, I'll definitely want two of the same design, so would it be wise to buy 2 or instead get one that isn't being discontinued?

Edited May 7, 2009 by TarHeelEMT

[Pete_H]

So ... what summer routes in the Cascades require two tools?

[jared_j]

That looks like a nice tool; just know that its shaft won't plunge well.

 

If you've got a budget, I think the smart thing to do is:

 

1.Get something like this Grivel tool or this BD axe for use on moderate alpine terrain where you might want a second tool. The advantage is that these have straight shafts and can plunge nicely.

 

2. Buy a pair of technical tools for pure ice or routes where ice is the dominant medium. On this pair of tools you could compromise 'plunge-ability' and get something that will climb really well. With these tools, you'd be armed and ready for pretty much anything.

 

If that requires too much kizzash, another good alternative would be to buy a pair of matching technical tools now and use one as a second tool. Then you're not in the situation where you have mismatching tools when you'd like to have them matching.

 

Finally, if even that is too expensive, then getting a single second tool and knowing you may want another one later is a decent alternative.

 

That's just one dude's opinion, though.

[TarHeelEMT]

Maybe nothing? I'm not exactly from the area.

 

There are a few in Nelson's Select where it is listed as a recommendation. Don't have it with me at the moment, but it's in there.

 

I'm not limiting myself to the Cascades, per se - I would like to find something this summer that features some degree of difficult ice.

[TarHeelEMT]

Thanks jared.

[Pete_H]

Maybe nothing? I'm not exactly from the area.

 

There are a few in Nelson's Select where it is listed as a recommendation. Don't have it with me at the moment, but it's in there.

 

I'm not limiting myself to the Cascades, per se - I would like to find something this summer that features some degree of difficult ice.

 

If you have the flexibility I would spend the summer in the Banff / Canmore area instead. There will be a lot more opportunity for climbing ice routes there in the summer then here. There are some decent routes like that have some technical snow and ice like J-Berg or Lib Ridge. But in the Cascades you're more likely to encounter snow and / or technical rock rather than ice.

[Dane]

What axe are you planning on using it with?

 

Lot of very difficult routes have been done with a hammer and a axe and generally they didn't match. But there are good combos and really bad combos today.

[TarHeelEMT]

Thanks Pete. I've thought about Banff and just might do it. I say the Cascades just because I can use this place as a resource for climbing partners. Know of anything equivalent for Banff?

 

Dane - I've got a very basic straight-shafted Grivel with an adze that I picked up several years ago.

[Pete_H]

You could check here:

 

http://www.gravsports-ice.com/icethreads/

[pup_on_the_mountain]

buy a pair of matching technical tools now and use one as a second tool. Then you're not in the situation where you have mismatching tools when you'd like to have them matching.

+1.

 

Ex-Tarheel here, who moved to WA with just a 70 cm axe. After one season in the Cascades, in which I borrowed or rented ice tools, I bought a pair of quarks. On routes where I need more than one axe, I just go with the pair of quarks. I must admit, though, that I've never used the axe+tool combo, and hence do not have an opinion on that option. The quarks have seen lot more use than my axe though (when you add ice climbing to the mix).

[TarHeelEMT]

Phew, not sure I could afford the Quarks. I'm pretty much just abusing my financial aid package to support my climbing habit.

 

I think I'll probably go with one of Jared's two recommendations for the moderate alpine terrain, since I'm not really looking at climbing anything incredibly lengthy or technical, plus it's more within my budget.

 

Thanks guys.

[Le Piston]

I remember the lean money days of college. Another option if you don't plan on doing technical ice climbing but do want to climb steeper alpine snow and short steps of ice, you can get a paired axe and hammer. I like the Black Diamond Venoms...the axe works fine by itself for glacier and alpine climbing. If I need a second tool, the hammer works well on most everything short of sustained vertical ice. The picks are changeable, so I can put a more technical pick on the axe if needed(and it still self arrests pretty well) Together they cost about the same as a single Quark. But, as others have wisely advised you can get by without a second tool for a lot of Cascade classics. I have used a picket myself as an improvised second tool on steep snow. Cheers!

[LostCamKenny]

I remember the lean money days of college. Another option if you don't plan on doing technical ice climbing but do want to climb steeper alpine snow and short steps of ice, you can get a paired axe and hammer. I like the Black Diamond Venoms...the axe works fine by itself for glacier and alpine climbing. If I need a second tool, the hammer works well on most everything short of sustained vertical ice. The picks are changeable, so I can put a more technical pick on the axe if needed(and it still self arrests pretty well) Together they cost about the same as a single Quark. But, as others have wisely advised you can get by without a second tool for a lot of Cascade classics. I have used a picket myself as an improvised second tool on steep snow. Cheers!

Great plug for BD, dude!

[t_rutl]

Maybe nothing? I'm not exactly from the area.

 

There are a few in Nelson's Select where it is listed as a recommendation. Don't have it with me at the moment, but it's in there.

 

I'm not limiting myself to the Cascades, per se - I would like to find something this summer that features some degree of difficult ice.

 

North Ridge or Colman Headwall on Baker, North Face of Shuksan, take a more difficult line up Adams Glacier on Adams...those are a couple that will run you into situations where a second tool would be useful if not necessary...earlier in the season the better but they've been done as late as August

 

if you can track one down...grab a Grivel Matrix light...pair it with an Air Tech Evo or BD Venom and you'll be solid...or even your straight shaft axe will do