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mvs

[TR] Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix - Cosmique Arete 5/1/2009

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Trip: Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix - Cosmique Arete

 

Date: 5/1/2009

 

Trip Report:

I got to be a tourist in Chamonix for a few days and I wanted to share one special short trip with you guys. My friend was feeling ill but blue sky drew me up high like a moth to a flame. Up high, in style, that is:

 

[img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3317/3503287431_fc22fe68ab.jpg[/img]

 

Then I got on the Cosmique Arete with loads of amazing scenery.

 

[img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3409/3504086892_aff75ab124.jpg[/img]

 

This spot here was really exciting

 

[img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3311/3503274083_8166d23b97.jpg[/img]

 

Then there was a rock climbing crux, maybe 5.7 in crampons? I self-belayed on this one. Note the poor style of this guy...at least I didn't use my KNEES!

 

3504087844_e69e8a1d69.jpg

 

Some more fun climbing near the end:

 

3507978634_8107b02d05.jpg

 

Then I was done. Back among the bored tourists. Remind me never to go anywhere "just to go."

 

3503277127_c9846be451.jpg

 

I looked back on the ridge for a while and tried to feel really broody and alpine:

 

3503278809_a5518de62d.jpg

 

I'm glad I got the chance to do this route, which is apparently extremely popular in summer. If you are there, take just a little gear and do it in winter/spring!

 

Gear Notes:

Crampons, one ice tool, a couple of nuts and slings. A 50/60 meter rope for a couple of rappels and for protection in 2-3 places.

 

Approach Notes:

I post-holed through the Col du Midi, taking about 30 minutes from the lift station to the start of the climb.

 

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Thanks for the TR - I did that climb a couple of weeks ago while in Chamonix. The Cosmiques is definitely a classic that lived up to everything I hoped it would be. On the tram ride up I ran into Colin Haley - got to talk with him for a bit. While in Cham we also got the chance to ski the Vallee Blanche a few times, and to climb the Goulotte Chere (twice!) Chere was defintely in, but at a "D" rating I thought the ratings were very easy compared to the North Cascades. Glad you had a good trip!

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