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powderhound

best of cc.com [TR] Trout, Stns, Twin Pillars - the usual 4/20/2009

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Trip: Trout, Steins, Twin Pillars - the usual

 

Date: 4/20/2009

 

Trip Report:

Lets first REWIND to the last day of tax season april 15th, also the day I took another henious CPA exam. Directly, afterwards I proceeded to Spirit Mt. and go up and than down, but thats why they are still in business. Anyways, the next day I left for a little TC action. No partner, just betting on the TC community and just good clamberin' folk. Thanks, to Aaron and Sara for letting me join in as a random number 3, and to stan for showing up from portland, to climb on friday.

 

alchemey2.jpg

 

 

 

Once again, TC offered great climbing with good people. My time at TC went something like this: I met a set of wonder twin's that pointed me to the long march through the space between to find the monster that saught my soul.

 

Two days, not another sole in sight cept' the buddies on the other end of the rope. The river is getting warmer and the campground will soon be full of wild master baiters.

 

On friday, stan and i parted ways with a shared beer and promises of climbs yet to come, he was off to smith to getter done on his proj. I was headed to stiens for three days of .....unknown, but with the unknown came the ability to climb whatever i wanted each day.

 

Saturday: Rays food place, loaded up on all sorts of wonderful car camping food and bev's. Drove out the gravel roads way away from town to the gnar. Tyler, had a declassified uber duper secret topo drawn, from a buddy about a couple possible routes on the formations around the steins pillar.

 

Sideshow Bob: Begins on downhill side of unnamed fomation before stiens. Sweet f7 with solid bolts and anchors, the ledges leave plenty of room for the "now." four pitchs of climbing that you wouldn't really like.

 

SideshowbobP1and2_640x480.jpg

looking down p1 , leading p2,

 

"if you wanna get real wild you should stop and pull the camera up, real men take photo's on lead."

 

sideshowp3.jpg

 

the final pitch sucked

sideshowp4.jpg

 

 

 

hindsight for the day- don't make animal grunting noises around blind corners there could quite possibly be 20+ people having a wonderful saturday afternoon until some smelly grunting hippy came slogging along.

 

 

camp at the bone yard....

"dude there is another fucking skeleton out here...is that like six?"

 

sleep until 9am....think thats cause we were drinking tell...?

 

drive 45+ more minutes east to the Twin Pillars...tyler had really wanted to climb to this summit, and I just asked that he take me on an adventure.

twin.jpg

 

 

We couldn't make it to the trail head because of snow...so we just trompped through the "bad burn forest" for an hour 45. We both relished in the sunlight and dead pines.

 

 

truck.jpg

 

 

-"so what do you think we should take, is there any mention of gear?" "or whats on top"

Cows.jpg

maybe these?

 

-"we should just take it all"

 

 

coping.jpg

coping the most up to date information

 

so we began on what we thought was the middle of the north face but...it wasn't.

wrongway.jpg

 

"i would much rather climb that overhanging crack than this loose face"

gettingthegoods.jpg

 

 

 

so off we went to this corner thing that we now believe to be the campfire variation to the north face route.

 

Upperjamcrack_640x480.jpg

Stoked about the solid rock

 

onlymencarrycamera.jpg

more on lead shots...

 

we summited and head back across the landscape trying to beat the sunset....we both made it back to the truck sans headlamp. at the truck we found our beer, beats, and “the now”

summittwin.jpg

 

stardrive.jpg

 

twinnorthridge.jpg

 

 

 

 

“why don’t more people understand the importance of how great a day of adventure can be?”

proceed to party with brats and beer

 

4/20/09

Wake @ 11:00am…dingle around for a little while, eat, celebrate the wonderful holiday, arrive at the stiens pillar around 1:00pm, caffeinated and happy. We had hopes of the east face but it was 80 degrees and we wanted nice comfy ledges and shade. So the regular route it was.

 

Solo p1, f fun.

p1stiens.jpg

 

Tyler styled p2, this is me following the short traverse.

p2stiens.jpg

 

P5 lil aid, lil free

p5stiens.jpg

 

 

Continue up the regular route, summit in the sun and celebrate a couple more times. WTF: why no summit register

 

summitstiens.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

thenow.jpg

the "now"

 

Approach Notes:

follow the gravel road

Edited by powderhound

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worthy tr and sweet pics. nice sending on some backwater oregon routes.

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:tup: :tup: :toad::crosseye::brew:

 

edit: what up markd!!! that rout we did was the one that Jim had bolted. hope alls well with you dude!

Edited by corvallisclimb

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Burners! I could never imagine a climbing trip where the "now" was involved.

Um, yeah.

The lost arrow bolt shot is pretty cool.

 

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Burners! I could never imagine a climbing trip where the "now" was involved.

Um, yeah.

The lost arrow bolt shot is pretty cool.

 

you mean the old soft iron knifeblade, with a stardrive through the tip.

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Burners! I could never imagine a climbing trip where the "now" was involved.

Um, yeah.

The lost arrow bolt shot is pretty cool.

 

you mean the old soft iron lost arrow, with a stardrive through the tip.

 

:crosseye:

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Burners! I could never imagine a climbing trip where the "now" was involved.

Um, yeah.

The lost arrow bolt shot is pretty cool.

 

you mean the old soft iron knifeblade, with a stardrive through the tip.

 

The whole TR was awesome, but that was the icing on top of the cake for sure! :wave:

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