rocky_joe Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 (edited) Trip: Mt. Hood - Leuthold Couloir Date: 4/19/2009 Trip Report: After a failed attempt on Wy'East a few weekends back, and long week of school it took little persuasion to get me signed on for a trip up the hill. Thomas (maineiac) and I have been known to make any and all of our trips interesting (yeah, interesting, that's a good word for it). Whether it be me dislodging breadbox sized boulders, or Thomas navigating after the fact, it seems every time we step out of doors together we're bound for an interesting story or two. All this in mind I threw my gear in the back of the car and we headed out. Having both been up the cattle drive (him a few times), we wanted something a little more interesting, Leuthold seemed the obvious choice; short approach, great view, moderate snow. Our one qualm with the mountain in previous goes has been the damned down climb; Thomas, the skier that he his has remedied this in past summits with two boards and some poles, however on this attempt he's working on breaking in some shiny new boots. So, how on earth can one get down the mountain without skis or walking? Sleds seemed the obvious answer. A short stop in Sandy and were the very proud owners of two toboggan style sleds. We arrived at a very empty Timberline parking lot around 3:45. Thomas quickly signed us in while I readied the gear. Sleds in hand we hit the snow, presented with our first obstacle, we made quick work of rigging our sleds to carry our packs (better than on our backs, right...ha). The hike to Illumination Saddle was quick and (relatively) painless. The viiews of Yocum at sunset were stunning and everything looked to be in, hell we could even see (what we thought was) the bootpack up the couloir. Setting up camp was perhaps the one let down of the trip...no pre-dug pit :'( Out of the wind, we feasted, me on a safeway sammich and Thomas on some grouping of GU, clif bar and whatever else that kid packs around these days. 3am came quickly, but for the first time I was well rested for an alpine day (all 5.5 hrs of sleep!). Started climbing around 3:45...Thomas had to curl his hair, and I kept insisting I had nothing to wear, but other than that we were fairly quick to get to it. The schrund is just starting to open, only a few deep places. Not having traversed high enough, we crossed the schrund and we into the couloir. Thomas taking the Lead Thomas starting the hourglass Reaching the Queen's Chair I took the lead for the first bit, placing a few pickets, but we soon gave up on that; the snow could not have been better and the trough in the middle of the couloir made for a simple ascent. The crux was definitely dogding by all the little shit falling around us, but hey, if you can dodge falling ice you can dodge a ball (life skills 101). Thomas took the lead through the hourglass. The rest of the climb was straight forward and very enjoyable. The views were fantastic, stunning in fact. Once on the summit ridge we were struck with the reality that is a sunny day on hood. A flock of people were pushing for their summit, and all up the old chute. We snapped a few shots, said cheers and then were ready to get the hell off the hill. A brief traffic jam in one of the chutes (see: French Technique--lack thereof) was the singular hold up on the descent. Opting to avoid the crowds and a longer walk, we made our way down the west crater. Once in sight of the tents we knew the climb was over and the real fun could begin. We made quick work of tearing down camp and munching some lunch (breakfast). Wathched some Mazamas (might also have been Chemeketans, or Obisidians, but i don't care to differentiate) roped up just below the saddle doing something fancy (I think the called it "belaying"). A few minutes later the fun had begun...3000 vertical feet of sledding, 35 minutes, and one angry ski patroller later we were at the car celebrating. The sledding was marvelous, it only took three or four gnarly crashes to decide to pack the axes away and a few more to figure out how to link the turns. The ride was bliss...there was even a helicopter filming (a skier). I'm sure we'll be getting a call soon from the sickest sled sponsors. All in all a fantastic trip with a characteristic twist. Gear: 2nd tool (not needed) Pickets (placed 1 or 2) Glacier Line SLEDS!!! Approach: Huh? Edited April 21, 2009 by rocky_joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ptown_Climber1 Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Nice job guys! Yeah I was up there Sunday morning as well, but was one of the barbarian horde members climbing Old Chute on this day....man it was crowded up there. I think I ran into you guys on the summit ridge, asked you about how Reid Headwall looked...you said it was all 'in' ....spotted you guys down climbing West Crater as well.....looking at those pics, I'm envious for sure....Leuthold one of my favorites, but looking to climb Reid HW in couple weeks hopefully..... Couple pics from the ridge/summit on Sunday AM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maine-iac Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Yeah it was a cluster funk up on the summit ridge. People leaving bags at the end of the cat walk, people getting tangled in other peoples ropes. The route was super stellar though!!! Why arn't people doing the gates? How hard can it be right now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WageSlave Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Nice sledding adventure! Next time haul them up Leuthold's and sled that instead. Did ya get any video of your descent? Fork it over. Hope you liked following my crab-walk across the Reid. I was only half as drunk as it looked. Plus it was the only way to get that crust to hold body weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frikadeller Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Hahaha... Sled decent! I wish I had seen that one. I once saw some guy that posts around here riding a shovel, but the sled would have topped that! I am sure the ski patrol must have blown a gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky_joe Posted April 21, 2009 Author Share Posted April 21, 2009 yeah I kept trying to follow your boot pack, half of is was covered in fallen shit, but it was definitely appreciated on that windblown stuff up top. About Reid HW, how much more involved is that route in good condish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 About Reid HW, how much more involved is that route in good condish? steeper and cooler - most folks will want an ice tool to go w/ their axe and a rope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frikadeller Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 This picture reminds me how I am glad that I was there pretty early on saturday to get first tracks down the steep part of the saddle, from this picture it looks like a cluster fuk, and I would be dodging mazamas and kids with snow shoes. I saw them all coming up as I came down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nwoutdoornews Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 "dodging mazamas and kids with snow shoes" Brilliant. And so true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WageSlave Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 "dodging mazamas and kids with snow shoes" Brilliant. And so true. They're not the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradW Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 Great pics! I was the skier you crossed paths with Sat. afternoon at Silcox. Wish I could have been there to witness the sled descent. Glad you guys didn't become one with a lift tower. Next time, aim for the snowboarders on your way down. ; ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frikadeller Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 (edited) Next time, aim for the snowboarders on your way down. ; ) What's with the shitty comments about snowboarders? Like "you" skiers are any "better" than us, huh? I'll bet I took a WAY better line down than you did on your lame ass "skis" that weekend... Sheesh... Edited April 23, 2009 by Frikadeller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frikadeller Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 (edited) "dodging mazamas and kids with snow shoes" Brilliant. And so true. They're not the same? Have you ever seen the Mazama's get in your way? They are not "kids on snowshoes"... More like a bunch of people roped up on the "Palmer" for "practice" and you are trying to ski past that while yelleing: "Simon, don't cut the rope!!!" or "stupid, stupid, stupid stupid!" and realizing that no one get's the movie reference... Plus, well, they just clog the plumbing. (Nice group of people, and they work really hard at keeping climbing access available, but when they conduct their classes, they can make the mountainside a little "crowded"... Have you even seen them invade a gorge trail like dog mountain? whoa!) Edited April 24, 2009 by Frikadeller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alewarrior Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Nice photos. I wish I could have seen the sledding. Hell I wish I could have done the sledding. Maybe next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maine-iac Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Nice photo Frik, where is that? There was a guy up there being photographed by a heli on sunday, anybody know what route he skied? It looked like it might have been the Wy'East, but not too sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 mazamas make for interesting obstacles. we dodged them on sunday, 'cause they were sitting right at the base of the sweet turns off the I saddle. good times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frikadeller Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 (edited) Nice photo Frik, where is that? That's the upper part of zig zag glacier. We dropped in at the hot rocks next to west side of crater rock. That picture shows my partner following my line as you exit the tighter spots near the top. The picture (which sux, my camera is old and does not take really good pictures) was taken from I rock saddle. Edited April 24, 2009 by Frikadeller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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