AOC Posted July 24, 2001 Share Posted July 24, 2001 I am an (upstate) New Yorker planning a climb of Glacier Peak in early August. I'm comfortable on steep snow and ice, having climbed extensively in New Hampshire, California and, less frequently, in the Cascades. Because I will be soloing, I'm looking to avoid setting foot on even largely uncrevassed glaciers to the extent reasonably possible. From the Beckey guide, it looks like the Frostbite Ridge route might involve minimal glacier travel at this time of year. Is this right? Any information on the route, or other suggestions for the peak would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 24, 2001 Share Posted July 24, 2001 All I know is my friends did the Sitkum Glacier route recently ~ 1 month and they said it was pretty clear. Good Luck and have fun I have never done it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oo9 Posted July 27, 2001 Share Posted July 27, 2001 AOC, There are a few cracks between Kennedy Pk. and Rabbit Ears and a very steep slope to the summit.It will probably be safer and faster to descend a standard route, though my two attempts were accompanied by a thunder storm and a snow shower.Kennedy Pk is fast and fun from your camp 1 good luck Have Fun~ Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anne Posted July 27, 2001 Share Posted July 27, 2001 I climbed Glacier Peak via Frostbite Ridge about 2 weeks ago, on a rope team the entire time. There weren't a whole lot of visable crevasses, but there were some and there's no telling when they might decide to open up more.(i.e. we practiced crevasse rescue on Kennedy Glacier, right by there.) Due to the low snow pack, Frostbite Ridge had ALOT of scree and talus, kind of a pain. The view at the top was spectacular, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anne Posted July 27, 2001 Share Posted July 27, 2001 Oh yeah, there is a gulley along the route also that is like a bowling alley, due to the low snowpack- lots of volcanic rock peeling off- helmets are advisable! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jman Posted July 27, 2001 Share Posted July 27, 2001 I have no idea on currect conditions, but I did this last year. Fantastic route, very long though. If you do it, give yourself 3 days - your body will thank you. Watch out for varmits! My friend had his hat torn to shreds by a marmot - nothing else was touched. It was probably revenge for him taking a dump right in front of the critter's home/hole in the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Climzalot Posted July 27, 2001 Share Posted July 27, 2001 As of 2 weeks ago the route was almost entirely uncrevassed. The only crevasse wprth mentioning was on the upper Kennedy glacier on your way to the saddle below the rabbit ears. You can completely avoid any and all crevasses in this area by staying high towards the crest of the ridge. The steep sections were fairly mellow with two tools both going up and coming down as long as you are comfortable on 60-65 degree ice. This is one of the more scenic climbs I have done in the Cascades. The meadows and views on the lower ridge are spectacular and the upper ridge is very enjoyable with the execption of the pumice slope below the rabbit ears. The pumice slope is not manadatory. You can climb 55 degree ice to left of it for a more technical and less ugly option. You can take 3 days to do it but it can go in a whole lot less than that depending on how you like to climb. Super fun outing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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