[TR] Icefield's Parkway - Polar Circus 4/8/2009

[Dane]

Trip: Icefield's Parkway - Polar Circus

 

Date: 4/8/2009

 

Trip Report:

Polar Circus '81...the first WI4 pitch low in the gully.

 

 

 

Polar Circus, when in safe avi conditions. these days is an easy (WI4/ 4+), classic day climb with an short approach and quick descent. One to go back to again and again.

 

All of these photos but one of Polar Circus were found on Goggle images.

 

Turning the Pencil just below and gaining the avi slope. A short bit of WI4 and a lot of mild ice and gully climbing are below this. Spectacular position! The avi slope goes up and out to the right and then back left into the upper bowl above on an almost level traverse. That final level traverse back into the basin and the upper tiers can be really scary because of the sun exposure.

 

Get there early!

 

 

 

 

 

The last four pitches of the climb (with a long rope) and generally the only thing people rope up for these days. In early Jan of '75 the first ascent party had climbed 14 roped pitches of ice and taken 8 days up and down. Water fall climbing was fairly new and nothing this long or this cold had been done before. Charlie Porter, the Burgess Twins and Bugs McKeith were some of the most accomplished climbers of their generation at the time.

 

 

The Ribbon pitch below.

 

 

You are looking at three of the last four pitches in this picture. The fourth pitch is just out of the picture covered by tree/shrub topped ridge. You go over this ridge as you zag back across the top of the avi slope above the Pencil. The first pitch you see here is the Ribbon pitch.

 

 

Parts of the the last two pitches are shown here on the last tier.

 

 

Gear Notes:

These days all the rap anchors up high (above the Pencil) are fixed chains or pins and tat. You will rap straight over the Pencil so becareful there of you or your rope knocking anything down. 70m ropes are really much easier but 60m ropes will work as well. Take some tat for V threads for the Ribbon pitch and lower in the gully if you want to avoid any extra uphill walking at day's end.

 

Be really careful on the avi slop above the Pencil...it has been fatal.

 

Avi danger in particular on this route can be horrible with a huge slide coming out of the upper bowl at the top of the climb. Nothing would survive if you were any where below the final tier when that happens.

 

A dozen screws should be pleanty for anyone capable of finishing the climb. Plan on anywhere from 5 to 3 roped pitches depending on the length of your rope and a lot of easy ice either soloed or climbed together.

 

A early start will get you off before the south facing avi slopes heat up. Or better yet do it on a snowy, cloudy and cold day. You can avoid the avy danger and soft, rotten ice on the crux pitch if you do without the sun. Don't forget 3 or 4 long screws just for that rotten ice late in the day.

 

8 or 9 hrs round trip, car to car, these days is a reasonable time with good ice and snow conditions. A hook fest on hammered out ice will make it quicker. A lot of snow to break trail through or really cold, new ice will make it a slightly longer day.

 

Approach Notes:

On a good day 10 minutes up a boot packed trail from the road. Cowboy-up and start on the first easy ice available instead of walking up the snow slope to the left and beginning of the first WI4 pitch.

[Bigtree]

Dane, only your first picture works. Am going to be up there week of Feb 10 and would like to climb this classic. Are your photos posted elsewhere I can look at them (like somewhere on your website)?

[Dane]

here ya go..

have fun!

 

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/12/polar-circus-route-description-photo.html

[Bigtree]

Sweet. Thanks Dane.