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index recommendation for big walling practice


ivan

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planning on going to the valley this summer to do a wall

 

living in vancouver-land, i've only cragged at index twice

 

looking to be dry this weekend - what would be good routes to get some fun practice not only climbing but hauling, penduluming and spending the night in a ledge? i've got the nelson topo for town crier and city park of course and they both look good - what else is there and is there any easy beta to be had on it?

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i prefer the green dragon over town crier, there's also dana's arch up there as well (not much penji-ing going on on any of those). also up there is abraxas and the golden arch.

 

on the lower town wall p1 of Narrow arrow and NAD are good, as are TPMV, iron horse, etc.

 

nearly all of these (maybe not golden arch) have gone clean so leave the pins at home.

 

if it is dry enough to free climb be warned that its poor style to be the aid gumby clogging up the classic free climbs on the ltw and prepare for slander.

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if it is dry enough to free climb be warned that its poor style to be the aid gumby clogging up the classic free climbs on the ltw and prepare for slander.

 

Thats kinda a stupid statement. Since when did one group have priority over another? I thought it was first come first serve.

 

 

 

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green dragon and town crier are close enough to each other that you can penji from one to the other at...well...probably any point. you can turn it into a playground and then just deploy the ledge when it gets dark.

 

now THAT'S a fun weekend!

 

you could totally dial your lower outs, penjis and hauling by doing those two routes in some random manner.

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I second the above suggestions. Start with the 5.11 start to Green Drag-On/Town crier and then go for both of them. If you want to spend the night on your portaledge, the roof at the top of p3 of GD provides you some shelter if there is still a lot of water coming off the top. If you want some practice hauling, TC is more likely going to give you some more interesting situations than GD (the chimney for example).

 

Have fun up there! Enjoy watching the trains go by at night :)

 

 

 

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I second the above suggestions. Start with the 5.11 start to Green Drag-On/Town crier and then go for both of them. If you want to spend the night on your portaledge, the roof at the top of p3 of GD provides you some shelter if there is still a lot of water coming off the top. If you want some practice hauling, TC is more likely going to give you some more interesting situations than GD (the chimney for example).

 

Have fun up there! Enjoy watching the trains go by at night :)

 

 

no worries 'bout sleeping through trains - beacon's more than prepped me for that (but not the meth heads, not regretably :) )

 

how is it that brown beckey has none of the index big routes? i don't have topos for any of the climbs mentioned above 'cept town crier and city park - any place i can get them fo'free as i am very, very poor :(

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save your tears plaidman. isn't TC on the UTW...

yes, save the tears...for the endless slow walk up the hill w/ a giant haulbag to even reach town crier :)

 

thanx for the recommendations - we woke up the green dragon from its winter slumber this weekend, overnighting on a ledge under the big green roof, but unfortunately not out of the continous drizzle - by noon yesterday the upper wall was dry, except for the large waterfall and davis-holland, green dragon and town crier were in fine climbing form!

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