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Index Lower Town Wall Access Issue


olyclimber

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Hey everyone, I just want you to be aware of an access issue that impacts one of our favorite climbing areas. The owner of the private property that comprises the Lower Town Wall area wishes to sell to a quarrying company. Full details and discussion can be found here:

 

http://www.washingtonclimbers.org/Current/Town.htm

 

This situation is tenuous, but members of the Access Fund and the Washington Climbers Coalition have opened a dialogue with the owner.

 

My request as a part owner of this board but also as a person who considers Index to be among the top places to go climbing is that you temper your discussion of this topic on the board, and not endanger any negotiations taking place to secure the LTW as a place that future generations can someday climb at (including my son). If you have energy or desire to contribute, please focus them towards the organizations that are already involved: The Access fund and/or the WCC. The American Alpine Club might be involved as well.

 

In this matter I believe it is important that we watch we say on the board. While it is fun or cathartic to spray or get angry on Internet Boards such as this one, to many (including law enforcement, the non-climbing community, and perhaps even the court of law), this board represents a face of the climbing community.

 

Thanks for your understanding, and I'm very hopeful that this can be resolved with our access to Godzilla, Japanese Gardens, and the rest of the climbs preserved.

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Wow, this is aweful. I couldn't imagine losing Index to a new quarry operation. It kind of dwarfs our debates on bolting ethics ;)

 

On a serious note, what is the current status of climbing? I was there in February and plan to head straight back next sunny dry day. Are we in danger of being ticketed and towed?

 

Who can we email, what can we do? I've probably spent the last 5 years practically living at Index and won't know what to do if it disappears. It's simply the only good crag in the state from my point of view. Lots of history though, maybe we could protect it in some way based on that?

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I think you hit the nail on the head with what can we do?

 

Perhaps someone who's in the thick of this can give us some options to what we can do for example:

 

Draft a generic email that can be cut and pasted from interested parties to communicate to the Access Fund and WCC how important this is to us.

 

Info for donations to the AF and WCC specifically earmarked to purchasing the Lower Town Wall.

 

Info regarding current access, etc.

 

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I'll be posting soon about more about ways you can specifically contribute to this issue (either with money or with letter writing, etc). The Access Fund is *well* aware of this issue and its significance.

 

In the mean time, patience is going to help the cause the best.

 

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"In the mean time, patience is going to help the cause the best."

 

And when you go to the crag be good citizens so that if decision makers visit they will see responsible people using a treasured resource. It would be really, really sad to lose the LTW at Index.

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Thanks for doing that Porter, I think a lot of us would be willing to donate a lot of time (fundraising events?) and what money we have to a purchase effort.

 

I'd also like to point out that the wcc article asks for help valuing the land (in terms of quarry feasibility) from people who have experience with environmental regulations or railroad easements.

 

As far as climbing out there currently, i've been out recently and have had no problems. I imagine the most important thing is to be very respectful and polite in any interactions you have with the owner? It is their land and we'd like them to be willing to sell it to climbers.

 

If they don't want you climbing on the LTW, there is a lot of Index that is not affected by this. Everything from the country to the upper walls I believe; there is a map on the wcc page. The traditional parking lot is on railroad land and there are other places to park as well (I think the city has a parking lot at the end of their foot trail near the gun club?).

 

 

Edited by ryanb
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The LTW on private land all this time? Amazing! I had always thought it was all owned by the state parks system.

 

Unfortunately the one thing you really can do is respect any No Trespassing signs should they reappear until this issue is settled.

 

**Total Conjecture** As posted elsewhere quarrying stopped when the railine was moved closer to the cliff in the 1960's. While climbers might be against quarrying I'd bet the railroad is even more against it for good reason. I think the railroad generally gets what it wants particularly when it comes to major railine across the Cascades.

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**Total Conjecture** As posted elsewhere quarrying stopped when the railine was moved closer to the cliff in the 1960's. While climbers might be against quarrying I'd bet the railroad is even more against it for good reason. I think the railroad generally gets what it wants particularly when it comes to major railine across the Cascades.

 

I have never seen that posted before, andn I have not recognized the evidence as such. Where is this older bed? This should be a wake up call for climbers to get this land into public hands.

 

But I will suggest, given the myriad of environmental laws, things seem stacked against reopening the granite mine.

 

 

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But I will suggest, given the myriad of environmental laws, things seem stacked against reopening the granite mine.

 

 

This is a question of mine. There have got to be regulations about this considering the fact that the North Fork is a Salmon and Steelhead run. However, wouldn't the the Quarry opperation just have to pay fines to get around this? Yellowstone Club in Montana re-routed streams and broke all kinds of environmental regulations to which they waived a wad of cash without thinking twice. I'm concerned that this might be the case for quarrying. But that was Montana, this is Washington - things might be a little different?

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We are in discussions with the landowner, Patricia Murphy, about purchasing the property for climbers. I spoke with her on Monday (4/6) and discussed some details of a possible purchase. There are issues to be worked out, but as it stands, it looks like buying Index is a real possibility. We have a good relationship with Pat - she is a very nice lady and has no problem with climbers or climbing, per se, but is concerned only because miners told her they would not purchase the land for quarrying as long as climbers are there.

 

Based on recent discussions, we are very hopeful that we will be able to negotiate a reasonable sale. But heads up, climbers and Index lovers: to make this happen we're all going to have to chip in. If we all throw in the cost of a few days at the gym and beers afterward, we can buy the best crag in the western U.S. (in my opinion) and preserve it as a climbers' haven in perpetuity!

 

I will update as discussions progress.

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For those that don't know, jonah is one of the leaders helping make this whole thing happen. He is our local Access Fund guy and is also a Washington Climbers Coalition boardmember.

 

Thanks for posting the update here Jonah! I know we are all riveted on this issue.

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