tjmcd Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 I've seen a lot of folks hook a finger through a biner to orient it for the clip. I've done it plenty, but it sure seems like a great way to remove a finger. I have started to retrain myself to either grab the outside edges (but this requires several fingers) or to grab the top of the biner in the palm of my hand, twist it and push the rope in with my thumb. I'd like to know what folks think of the finger thru the biner danger and whether there are any other finger friendly cliping techniques. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkMcJizzy Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Finger thru a bolt, pin, or wire is an even better way of lopping off a finger, especially when aid climbing, or sketched out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 (edited) i broke my finger on the blocks pitch stepping onto a fixed head, the piece popped and my finger slid through the beaner connected to the piece i was standing on. it broke in three places, it was pretty much a wet noodle until it stiffened up. pretty fun jugging with one hand. kinda funny, some punkass 18 year old took over and got us to the top. i can't beleive such a young climber could be so brave Edited March 23, 2009 by pink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 good thing you have so much practice with one hand... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 While it is not a good idea to put your finger into things (insert Beavid & Butthead snicker) the probability of hurting your finger while clipping a rope into the biner is very low. The above example of damaging the finger when you suddenly load it (blown piece or slip while free climbing) doesn't apply while clipping the rope. When people have damaged the finger, it usually with the finger tightly curled around some biner or bolt or something like that. With the rope clipping technique, usually only the first pad of the finger is in contact with the biner. Putting the whole finger in (2nd or 3rd digit) makes it very hard to get the rope in. (more snickers) If you fall while clipping with only one digit in the biner, it slips out easily without damaging the finger. That said, I usually use the grab the whole biner in the palm of the hand and push in the rope with the thumb technique. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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