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[TR] Hood - Leutholds Couloir 3/12/2009


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Trip: Hood - Leutholds Couloir


Date: 3/12/2009


Trip Report:

A bit late on the report...But, for those interested in a fine alternative to the crowds on SS of Hood...Last Thursday, 3/12, 3 of us from Corvallis climbed Leutholds. Left T-Line at 2:45, summit at 12:15, back to the car at 3:15 (12.5 hrs RT). Great snow conditions up the Palmer and across to Illumination Saddle. Bright, full moon. Easy to drop down onto the Reid, then not so easy traversing waist deep snow over to Yocum. Very slow going. Fairly tiring. The deep snow continued until almost to the Hourglass, where we finally found firm snow/some ice. Very little icefall - we climbed fairly early and it was cold. Queen's Chair was great - fine views/no wind/first direct sunlight. Perfect snow up to the summit ridge - no problem traversing to the true summit. Watch for north side cornices. Snow was a bit soft coming down the Old Chute - went straight to Hot Rocks, up to the Hogsback, and then down to the Palmer. In all, a great route. Saw nobody until we got back to the Miracle Mile on the descent. Start early, climb when it is cold.





Gear Notes:

Standard glacier gear/rope + pickets (which we didn't use). 2nd tool very optional. The couloir itself was not particularly steep or icy. Wear a helmet.


Approach Notes:

Boring slog up Palmer. Typical wind blown fare to Illumination Saddle. Then deep snow to the couloir. Don't waste your time with snowshoes.

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The ramp up to the Queen's Chair was nice and firm. The chair itself was a great place to relax, enjoy the warming sun, and gear up for the final push. We found perfect snow conditions from the QC up to and across the summit ridge. Go get it.

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