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klenke

Rock Climbing around San Diego?

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This Spring I will be in San Diego for a few days. I was wondering if anyone knows of any outdoor rock climbing areas that are within an hour or two's drive of San Diego. The desired range of climbs for these possible areas are Class 5.easy to 5.11.

 

Thanks.

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There is some pretty good climbing at Mission George, El Cajon Mountain, Santee Boulders... and more. Watch out, as some crazy guy has declared war on bolts and has defaced many routes.

 

More info at www.climbingsandiego.com

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Thanks.

 

Climbingsandiego.com: I should have known.

But when I typed in "Rock climbing San Diego" in Google that website didn't come up. You would think it would.

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There's a printed guidebook out too called Rock Climbing San Diego County or something. The closest places are Santee Boulders and Mission Gorge (not much bouldering, but some top ropes).

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Two hours will get you to either Joshua Tree or Idyllwild if you drive at a brisk clip ;-)

 

Depending upon when in Spring you're gonna be there and what the weather is like on that day, either or both could be perfect for climbing.

 

 

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I found three hours was standard from San Diego to the actual park entrance of J-Tree. Obviously worth the drive if you have the time.

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Lots of fun to be had down there. Mission Gorge was the squalid little crag I learned to climb at, I loved it fiercely.

 

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Santee is amazing bouldering, mostly edging, but you'd do best to have finger calluses that go rat-a-tat-tat when you drum your fingers on the formica table at the mexican restaurant.

 

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Woodson is the be all end all of crack bouldering, though in fact lots of things are high enough you'd want a top rope.

 

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Boomer Beach offers sandy landings for bouldering on grainy chossy sandstone, but the ambiance is great.

 

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El Cajon Mountain mostly got developed after I left, looks to be mostly good sport climbing. There's a newish place, Eagle Mountain I think, that's supposed to be splendid. That's most of the visitor worthy stuff within 40 minutes of downtown, but there's more of course for those obsessed. The whole county is just full of rock, but the chaparral vegetation is comparable to the worst bushwacking the NW. I could cough up some .pdf guidebook stuff if you need it Paul.

 

 

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Thanks Off... those pics just made my week a little better :)

 

I get the impression you have quite a few of those B/Ws lurking... you should put together a slide show for the next sausage fest :rawk:

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Mission Gorge is the best climbing close to down town San Diego. It's a very slick sort of stone related to granite. The ratings are old school like Joshua Tree. There are good climbs there. Most are single pitch and some of them you can top rope.

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Nice pics, OffWhite. Mission Gorge is a good time. I climbed there a bunch on a 6 month work trip a couple of years ago. Some of the routes are nice and would be classic if they were 80 ft longer...

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Thanks for the info, everyone. And thanks for the cool Black & Offwhite pics, Off.

 

So I found this book available on Amazon but the $59 asking price (for a used book) seems rather high:

Mission Gorge A Climber's Guide

 

Does anyone have any feedback on this book? Is it worth it for someone who doesn't know the area? Is it worth the money?

 

Paul

 

 

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Werner's book is well over 30 years old, more of a collector's item than a current guide. I've got a San Diego County guide from just a few years back if you want to borrow one Paul. I can always ship it to you, though I might be in your town within a week or so.

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Here is a link to the only guide that I used for approx 15 days of climbing between Mission Gorge and the Santee boulders and never had a lack of climbing. It is a well done guide with more then enough info, good lay out, fair star ratings and it is free...

 

San Diego Rock Climbing Free Route Guide

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and I would have posted that link before but I thought the link in the second post was to the free guide... I guess I should read.

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That free guide is alright, though the author, Art Messier, is the wack job who's been chopping other peoples routes and engaged in assorted other thievery and vandalism. He's a rap bolter himself, and has retrobolted and renamed a number of routes at Mission Gorge, so it's not an ethical crusade, but rather some manifestation of psychosis.

 

As an alternative, Chris Hubbard has a bunch of free topos available here though they tend to be more artsy, watercolors and such, and not as informative as Art's work. Those pdf guides of Art's had disappeared from the web for awhile, anyone interested should download and cache a copy while they can.

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That's coincidental! I actually found that Messier book online (same link) about ten minutes before this latest string of posts. I was thinking, "Wow, this guide looks pretty detailed and is just what I need!" Now you tell me this guy is considered in some circles to be unscrupulous. Given that I have no opinion on the matter, I think I will use it. I've printed it out and will attempt to get it bound at Kinko's (I mean a local printing shop :) )

 

And the Hubbard cupboard is nice too. Looks like I've got more research to do there.

 

Regarding your San Diego County guide, Off, would this be the same as the one called "San Diego Rock Climbing: A Guide to Sport and Top-Rope Routes in San Diego County" that I've found for sale at Amazon (but currently out of stock)?

 

Sure, I wouldn't mind seeing this book and perhaps borrowing it. If you're going to be up in Seattle soon, do you know a specific date and time? Perhaps we can make a pub club event out of it.

 

 

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that is interesting about Messier. I was only down there for 7 months and I did not hear anything about that. The stuff he had written in his guide did not seem to be pushing any odd agenda ect. Maybe he lost it after he wrote those... or ran out of funds for new bolt hangers.

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No, the one I have is by Dave Kennedy and covers much of the county. That one you found on Amazon is news to me, kind of funny to slice the game that thin that you have a separate guide for "sport routes and top ropes" but I suppose it isn't anything that Raindawg hasn't predicted.

 

If you're just going to The Gorge and Santee, Messier's pdf guides will do you fine, they're well enough done. I do think they predate his meltdown, you can find ample threads about that on that San Diego Climbing site and RC.com if that sort of thing entertains you. If you want to go to Woodson (highly recommended btw) you'll want something comprehensive and printed; it's a big hill and route locations can be rather convoluted.

 

Paul, I think I'll be in town Sunday evening, I'll do the PM thing with specifics.

 

 

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