corvallisclimb Posted March 20, 2010 Author Share Posted March 20, 2010 NAME THAT ROUTE IN OREGON :lmao: Looks like fun, I know where... but the route name escapes me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 you didn't get the memo on the best climbing in oregon!?!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted March 22, 2010 Author Share Posted March 22, 2010 fawk well now this is the mt hood fourm formerly the oregon fourm.... anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 It is also teh prime time to mount the Hood. You can get back to your rocks soon enough.(:alpine snootiness:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted March 22, 2010 Author Share Posted March 22, 2010 Heh Wayne I'm just bitter my first attempt and Bills second at the Black Spider a couple days prior to your sucess, was thwarted due too wind, or lack of sack to climb in the wind? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe_Poulton Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 Shot during my recent trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted April 1, 2010 Author Share Posted April 1, 2010 anyone know what this classic 3 pitch route is???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 is that trevor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted April 1, 2010 Author Share Posted April 1, 2010 Nope not Treyvor from that one day. Its my bro Randy Rimby from Eugene, on a Bauman route. The name and location though are... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 this was fun don't know, but based on shade of the choss, I'd guess something on the faces immediately downriver from monument, say little 3fj or london tower?? nice - shows a big sawth of rock but still not clear to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted April 2, 2010 Author Share Posted April 2, 2010 (edited) this was fun don't know, but based on shade of the choss, I'd guess something on the faces immediately downriver from monument, say little 3fj or london tower?? nice - shows a big sawth of rock but still not clear to me. spot on... since no one has probably done it thats the Adams/Emde Variation to the Victory of the Prolitarian Peoples Ambition Arete. Our variation was extremely dangerous, one of my most dangerous leads ever, the anchor at the end probably wouldnt have held a loaf of bread. Edited April 2, 2010 by corvallisclimb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 Victory of the Prolitarian Peoples ambition arete. very cool Tyler! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g orton Posted April 4, 2010 Share Posted April 4, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g orton Posted April 4, 2010 Share Posted April 4, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted April 4, 2010 Author Share Posted April 4, 2010 woah I guess that would be Acker? I have never seen it from that angle before though, it looks huge! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g orton Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 (edited) Woah I guess that would be Acker? I have never seen it from that angle before though, it looks huge! ============================================================== Tyler, Yes, this photo is of the upper southwest side. The wall is about 600 to 700 feet with another 200 to 300 ft cliff below that (not shown and vertually unexplored). So far Eagle's Dare (about 700ft) is the only route on this side of Acker. Obviously there is a little room for more routes. Once rapairs are made on the lookout it will again be available for overnight rental (possibly this summer). The most popular route and possibly Oregon's longest (about 1,100 ft long)is the Peregrine Traverse (5.6, not shown). Peregrine and Bald Eagle sightings are common while climbing here. Last year we were able to varify a species of Buckwheat that only grows on Acker Rock. We are hoping to organize a monitoring day this July 15 in which we will be making random rappels to count the location and distribution of this plant. Anyone who's rappelled down to the base of Eagle's Dare, with the valley floor 2,000 feet below, can tell you what an awsome face this is to be on. Please, anyone who loves exposure and can place bolts on rappel, please contact me at gorton@q.com. We'll be supplying the bolts, hangers, and food. If enough people attend maybe we'll make it an annual Spring Rappel Fest. greg Edited April 10, 2010 by g orton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beaconben Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 is that rare plant species going to affect access? not that I have ever climed there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g orton Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 is that rare plant species going to affect access? not that I have ever climed there Excellent question! The short answer is, no. This is one of the few cases where the Forest Service's approach has been extremely objective. The plant is easily avoided when climbing. The Forest has chosen to work closely with the climbing community to help protect the plant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 Tyler, Brian Holcomb had told us his route was unfinished so we went up to finish it back in the 80's sometime I think. I vaguely remember it was Bob McMahon, Andrew Trzynka and I. We did not make it to the high point before saying F**k this and bailing. I never went back and I don't think I could have guessed it from your picture, so thanks for sharing the name. Great guess Radek, what a total obscurity! ___________________________________________________________________ Greg, when is this rap-a-thon? _________________________________________________________________ One of the many obscurities on the North side of Beacon that no one climbs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g orton Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 ___________________________________________________________________ Greg, when is this rap-a-thon? _________________________________________________________________ Bill! We're looking at July 15th. So far "we" is the Forest Biologist and myself. Would love to have you come! greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 Tyler, Brian Holcomb had told us his route was unfinished so we went up to finish it back in the 80's sometime I think. I vaguely remember it was Bob McMahon, Andrew Trzynka and I. We did not make it to the high point before saying F**k this and bailing. I never went back and I don't think I could have guessed it from your picture, so thanks for sharing the name. Great guess Radek, what a total obscurity! Wow Bill great story! I'm surprised we continued on too! I'm going to meet up with Brian sometime this upcoming week to pick his brain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 Tyler, Brian Holcomb had told us his route was unfinished so we went up to finish it back in the 80's sometime I think. I vaguely remember it was Bob McMahon, Andrew Trzynka and I. We did not make it to the high point before saying F**k this and bailing. I never went back and I don't think I could have guessed it from your picture, so thanks for sharing the name. Great guess Radek, what a total obscurity! thanks Bill - I've spent many hours admiring those faces from the safety of the parking lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corvallisclimb Posted April 12, 2010 Author Share Posted April 12, 2010 Too add to it all... I thought I was on route the whole time because I thought I was following the natural features. Thomas kept yelling at me wondering why I was throwing so much shit off having to garden every hold while placing gear behind a giant bongo flake. Once I got to my "belay" I look down and 30 ft below and way out on the face I spotted their presumed high point. Brian and company made the right choice of avoiding the choss and making the second pitch a bolted face climb. I thought the opposite, wich well in the end created that mess. We climbed another three pitches to the top, slowly the rock got better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 LOL! Glad you survived it, looks like you might have done the FA of an extension?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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