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Matt Kidd

[TR] Duffey Lake Rd. - Loose Lady 2/15/2009

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Trip: Duffey Lake Rd. - Loose Lady

 

Date: 2/15/2009

 

Trip Report:

Short TR, sorry no pics.

 

Mike and hit the road around 6am Sunday morning from Vancouver and headed up with a general plan to hit something on the Duffey. On the way up we met Ben and brought him from Squamish to meet Rob from Whistler with the thought that we might all climb a route together. As it happened Rob and Ben decided to head to the D'Arcy area and Mike and I decided to head for the Duffey.

 

Looked to be several parties on the Rambles, and Carl's Berg looked really good and had noone on it, but Mike wanted to have a look at Sychronicity, which looked fat but possibly a bit white on the highest pitch or two. I talked Mike out of it because of the late start and so despite there being two other cars at the base we headed up Loose Lady around 10:45.

 

The lower pitches were in good condition and we left the rope in the pack. Briefly met the other two parties on the lower pitches (nice people but didn't catch any names) and found the final pillar looking quite impressive. The final pitch was formed in two separate pillars with the right side slightly less steep and the left steeper and significantly more featured.

 

I led the first pitch which was largely easy grade 3 with hero ice with a short exit section of interesting mushrooms to the belay at the left. Once up close it was clear that the only way to get up was via the left side as the right was a cold shower. When Mike got up to the belay he said "Looks pretty wild. I'm going for it." Glad he did because I wouldn't have. With a shrubby sort of belay I asked Mike that he get a screw in as quickly as possible, and off he led. The final pitch started on clear ice with poor protection for about five meters up to a cave with the first good pro. From the cave it traverses onto the steep and highly featured final pillar, which has good rests but difficult/awkward moves and placements, the occasional sketchy hook. Mike led it in fine style. When it came to my turn I found it more difficult than I anticipated, and was glad to be on a top rope. The crux for me was gaining the pillar from the cave, and had to grab the back of the pillar to lean out far enough to get a placement for the traverse. After gaining the pillar the climbing was fun and difficult, definately the most technical ice I have climbed. Really enjoyable.

 

A 60m rope stretch rap to climbers left got us down in one, and one more rap for the final grade 3 pitch and a bunch of down climbing got us back to the car for 5:30. Fantastic route and thanks Mike for leading that last pitch! :tup:

 

Found some gear on the route. Would like to return it to its owner. Claim by identification.

 

Sounded like Rob, Ben and his friend had a good day in D'Arcy, lots of stuff in. Go get some.

 

Gear Notes:

Standard

 

Approach Notes:

Nice easy approach

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Wow Canadians are just too nice..returning booty..

 

Anyways good lead boys..and you slept into..good style points

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