wayne Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Trip: - NY Gully - Beware of Ice Date: 2/15/2009 Trip Report: My second foray to the North side of Snoqualamie Mountain (first) again showed how it is precariously coated with Ice. We found conditions to be both icy and slippery. We decided to try and make these routes a bit safer by using special tools to chip away some of the collections of this dangerous sheen. We found a large ice streak flowing down the normally dry New York Gully route . We did a new direct start to the route, removing some of its thin coating. The rest of the "Mixed Climb" was a mixture of snice and water ice, the most dangerous kind. Be careful if you find yourself up there. We saw Alpine Dave and friend-Dan up there taking care of the other frozen streak to the left. Markos camera may reveal this insidiousness soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineMonkey Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 nice job, did you find my headlamp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 (edited) If anyone climbs this direct (left) start to the NY gulley, there is a #1 camalot there, left by myself and partner (Sol). IT should be bootyable. If you want to return it, that would be rad. If not, it should be fine to climb on, might need a new sling. It is located a couple rappels below the dead snag belay, detritus of a failed early-season attempt. IF climbing the normal start you really wont be close to it. Edited February 19, 2009 by Blake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 We saw it there, a person could do the regular start and go down 10' to the block that it is placed in. I dont usually grab gear that looks suspect. I did clean a nice camalot from higher on the route that could find it owner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daylward Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 "Friend" = me Alpine Dave and I succeeded on Pineapple Express (trip report forthcoming), and heard you guys shouting over there. We were not quite fast enough to catch you, though we did see your pee stain next to that silly spectra-slung stone below the "A1" step. Thanks for cleaning the ice off that by the way. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 You guys are killing me Buddies in for the weekend and I tell them the approach to Snoqualmie is terrible! You dudes running in and out all weekend while we wade hip deep a mile away for a couple of lousy pitches Nice work and looking forward to the TRs. Anyone want to run in there this week? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Blake, I think your cam and sling were maybe more like 40 or 50ft below the traverse pitch. I'm guessing it was a bare slab when you guys were up there? We got lucky and found thin neve and alpine ice. A few pics finally-- The start is the 2nd ice corner from the left: The start of the 1st pitch: Looking up the 1st pitch: The start of the 3rd pitch: 3rd pitch: More 3rd pitch: Looking down from the 3rd belay: Wayne starting up the steep bit on the 4th pitch: Wayne stylin' the last technical pitch (5th): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 damn that is a lot of ice. that direct start looks great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 We were putting screws in all day. I dont understand why there wasnt a line of people up there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 a lot of folks own ice tool for trips to ouray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Looks pretty hard lads! Nicely done, again Any more detailed route description you care to offer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineMonkey Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 Today Kyle Flick and I repeated this route, with the direct start. Went well and was SOOOOOO much fun. Not as much ice as in your pictures though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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