KaskadskyjKozak Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Trip: Lane Peak - Zipper Date: 2/14/2009 Trip Report: Yesterday I climbed Lane Peak with a few folks. Avy danger was forecast to be decreasing from Friday as moderate below 7000 ft. on N. aspects, so we decided to take a look at the route without beacons/probes. The objective viewed from the approach: The approach is easy and short, the worst part being the hike up the hill from the parking lot to the road above. Temps were in the high 20's. There was at least a foot of powder on the hill above a hard layer and it was slippery in spots. We used snowshoes on the road and up a fair amount of the avy fan leading up to the Zipper. We encountered variable snow conditions all day. When the snow got harder and icier we switched to 'pons and roped up. Immediately the snow got soft again - with more than a foot of loose powder on top. We immediately wondered if 1) this was a good idea due to the slope being loaded and a moderate avy forecast, 2) why we roped up since there wasn't going to be a need for pro. We headed up anyways. This involved a lot of wallowing. Only some sections of the route (very short) were firm at all. Overall it was pleasant climbing though. When we were about 2/3 of the way up, it started to snow lightly and got colder. Starting up the Zipper: Finishing up the Zipper: We topped off just after 1:30 and a couple folks scoped out the last pitch to the summit. It was steeper than the zipper (50 degrees at least) and looked icy. A couple folks decided to head down; the rest of us opted for a quick tag of the summit. The weather had just started to improve a this time. This last bit was the most "sporting" part of the day with about 100 feet of icy snow that took a few pickets and one ice screw (very marginal). A party in front of us climbed this part unroped, but it looked sketchy. You definitely want a 2nd tool for this, and will do some front-pointing. Summit pron: After tagging the summit we turned around and belayed one person to the tree just below and set up a rappel anchor and belayed each other to the anchor as well. We then set up a double-rope rappel to get past the "sporty" section, and then hauled ass to get back to the cars at 5:25 - just before dusk. This is steeper than it looks from the photo: A great day to be out! Gear Notes: Ice axe, 2nd tool, crampons, snowshoes, rope, a few pickets. Approach Notes: Around of foot of powder in the open areas, less in the forested area. Variable snow conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
belayerslayer Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 looks like fun! what direction/peak are we looking at in the second to last photo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted February 16, 2009 Author Share Posted February 16, 2009 looks like fun! what direction/peak are we looking at in the second to last photo? It is West - not sure if it's Wahpenayo or some other peak on the Tatoosh ridge crest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toast Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Snow slog, huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
limegreen Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 awesome day out there! here are a few more pics. at the end of the day we drove up to paradise and go this pic on the way down, you can see all three couloirs pretty well lots of fluffy stuff on the couloir...mighta been nice to have a way to slide down again on the other side checking out the top of the peak looking down that last icy bit to the top--two tools and crampons were a must (again, steeper than it looks). we didn't have a rope, but without more (consolidated) snow cover, it sure wouldn't hurt... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clarence Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Nice work! Where are everyone's skis? That lower part looks like it could have provided some great turns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
limegreen Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 (look to the right of the picture--a few other people up there had the right idea with the skis!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 Nice work! Where are everyone's skis? That lower part looks like it could have provided some great turns. I don't have a set-up yet. Yes, the conditions were great for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllYouCanEat Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 (edited) Nice work! Where are everyone's skis? That lower part looks like it could have provided some great turns. I don't have a set-up yet. Yes, the conditions were great for it! Yes they were...thanks for the boot track ...a most excellent ski. I sure wish that summit had a bit more snow though. Everything else, including the couloir, was a great ski though. Edited February 20, 2009 by AllYouCanEat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mzchristy Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 Beautiful photos!! Josh Hummel and I skiied the Zipper yesterday (2-22-09)and snow conditions were by far inferior to the glorious powder you had last weekend. It was still a great steep ski, though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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