viktor Posted December 10, 2001 Share Posted December 10, 2001 Greetings, I am currently compiling data for a revised guidebook for the Leavenworth area. I'm looking for any tidbits of information anyone can offer to improve the next edition, specifically new route data or any erroneous stuff in the current book. Also looking for worthwhile photos to publish, action shots, historical, bouldering, scenic, etc. I have listed a few specific questions below if anyone can answer: 1. I need an updated topo of Rattlesnake Rock/Piton Tower since bolts have been replaced and the current topo is not quite correct. 2. Need info on the new route(s) on the Drip Wall. 3. Can anyone provide a topo for Mountaineers Dome? Should I bother? 4. Would like to hear from Mike Shaefer in regards to his line at the Pearly Gates. 5. Anyone know anything about the scrubbed line to the left of Edge Rider? 6. Can anyone claim the route noted as Stretcher? 7. Same for the bolted line to the right of Dogleg. 8. Same for the arete on J-Y Crag. 9. Same for the bolted lines on Upper 8-mile Buttress. 10. Bridge Creek Wall-would dearly love to hear from anyone having climbed there recently. The current topo is pretty sketchy. 11. Has anyone actually freed Die Kante? (on TR of course) 12. Would like to hear from Joe Riechart (sp?) in regards to his route on Bathtub Dome. 13. I've hear of a route near Bathtub called Cricket(?) Need more info. I may have more questions later and thanks for any positive responses in advance, Viktor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 10, 2001 Share Posted December 10, 2001 I know the dude that bolted the line next to dogleg. He wants to remain anonymous. Also know some of the dudes of upper 8 mile Buttress. I will talk to them and see if they want to give me any info... But you might be able to find out yerself if you talk to some of your locals more..... Same guys upper 8 mile know about Bridge Creek too. [ 12-10-2001: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 10, 2001 Share Posted December 10, 2001 1) You can lead Mickey Mantle at 8-Mile Rock with tri cams so drop that TR notation. Also Classic Crack should be 5.8 not 5.9 2) Roof Crack at Mountie Dome is not a hand crack - it takes a #3 and #4 camalot 3) how about distinguishing between bad rock and absence of pro somehow in the "skulls" - if you are confident to solo a 5.7, that there is only 1 bolt on the pitch is no biggy but loose rock may be more of a concern. 4) better topo for Snow Creek wall and/or go back to the expanded topo for the shield like you had in the 1st edition. and/or provide more info on possible link ups to take in the good pitches of various routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 10, 2001 Share Posted December 10, 2001 What do you think about either multiple photos of SCW and drawing the route lines over them or more detailed? Detailed meaning section the wall out into 3 or 4 areas and then draw your topos? That way they are easier to read. Jupiter Rock, Waterfall Column, Recurve Buttress (has another route other than Recurve Dihedral now)? [ 12-10-2001: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted December 10, 2001 Share Posted December 10, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Dru: 12) Roof Crack at Mountie Dome is not a hand crack - it takes a #3 and #4 camalot That's hand size for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 10, 2001 Share Posted December 10, 2001 #4 camalot is hand size Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 11, 2001 Share Posted December 11, 2001 hands swollen from what? #4 camalot is knee jam and chicken wing size for me. luckily you can lieback/undercling then slap for a big jug on that route so you never have to really jam it except for a knee jam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 11, 2001 Share Posted December 11, 2001 I remember when Lambone said that list you sent Viktor about the Pearly Gates was my first ascent list Hahahhaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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