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[TR] Bryant Falls - Left Buttress 2/6/2009


bf2015

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Trip: Bryant Falls - Left Buttress

 

Date: 2/6/2009

 

Trip Report:

After seeing Bryant last week, Gabe and I had to get back out and try it. The weather was not the best, but avvy danger was low, so nothing was going to stop us (fair weather ice climbers in Washington are an endangered species). We approached high and found that the right buttress looked covered, but the left was mostly clear and fat on the lower section. There was a nice boot trail to it, so we didn't have to posthole very much. We were intending to do the entire route, however, halfway up the 1st pitch it turned into more mixed/alpine climbing that had virtually no protection. Gabe put one last screw in on the lower section and then climbed up another 30 or so feet, tranversed left, then downclimbed a moss-covered section to a good belay spot, cut a couple of v-threads and belayed me up. All in all, even as the weather started deteriorating, it was an awesome day of climbing. Being my first year ice climbing, building confidence is my goal. If the weather and conditions are good, we'll be trying the right buttress this weekend.

 

 

bryanta.jpg

 

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Gear Notes:

Screws, pro, and snow pickets.

 

Approach Notes:

Suggest approaching on the high side. Snowshoes definitely help, and are a must to get up to the right buttress.

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Sorry to create confusion, but that's not Bryant Buttress actually, that's the route called Not Quite a Plum.

 

This picture:

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/0223.jpg

 

is the giveaway: that tree above right there is the top of the first pitch. I think the guide has some non-commital words about Not Quite a Plum because at the time I was calling it something different than that, but I figured it out a little better after the book went to print.

 

Oh well, its a fun rotue!

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Sorry to create confusion, but that's not Bryant Buttress actually, that's the route called Not Quite a Plum.

 

This picture:

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/0223.jpg

 

is the giveaway: that tree above right there is the top of the first pitch. I think the guide has some non-commital words about Not Quite a Plum because at the time I was calling it something different than that, but I figured it out a little better after the book went to print.

 

Oh well, its a fun rotue!

 

I noticed this on the way out from the Tooth. Is it a named route?

 

ice-near-tooth.JPG

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