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New Ice / Alpine boot: Batura or Prime?


grenalds

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Looking for some feedback from some LaSportiva users out there...

 

I use the Spantik for up north and when it gets real cold, but I'm trying to find a boot to use on water ice (most of the time) and trips into the 'pine. I'd like to avoid having three boots (ie, spantik for AK, batura for alpine, and extreme for ice/mixed). I also have circulation issues.

 

It seems like the Batura is the hybrid I'm looking for. Any experience? Can they handle ice/mixed? How do they walk?

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Batura?

 

aac.sized.jpg

 

They walk well. The don't walk as well as the Trango Series though because the rocker could be better. The same things that make them a good hiking boot makes them not so great on steep ice. They have an extremely soft ankle. Which makes them a good mixed boot.

 

I'm not a fan of zippers, but the beefy nature of the zipper on the outer gaiter proved durable. I'm on my second season with mine. Bit of a pain to get in and out of. Lacing/gaiter isn't all that easy to deal with but managable.

 

The bigger toe box is noticable. Bigger than the Nepal IMO and bigger overall internally. Totally different fit than the Trangos. I wear the same size boot in all three boots (Nepal/trango/Batura). The Batura is by far the biggest boot size wise.

 

"These aren't the boots I choose for multiple nights out, as drying them would become a problem. However, they are my pick for fast, cold-weather ascents in the mountains and winter ice climbing."

 

I agree with the quote from Alpinist. The boot is hard to dry out and gets wet internally from sweat quickly. The Batura does not breath well which makes them a colder boot than they should be. A VBL or Mitchums will help.

 

Over all it is no dbl boot. Nor is it a good single boot with a decent super gaiter. I did a climb last winter in the icefields where I was really, really happy I could keep moving. -25 and knee deep light powder snow for a good part of the approach and decent. Worst combo you can get for cold feet. I have spent time in similar conditions in the Nepal Evo with no problems.

 

The Batura is warmer than the Trangos and better compared IMO to the Nepal Evo and about the same as the Nepal for warm. The Nepal Evo offers much more support for the ankle in every direction and will out last the Batura.

 

Jack Roberts, who I respect a lot, says the Batura is his favorite boot with well over 100 days a year on ice and mixed.

 

Just an observation but I did notice Colin Haley wore Baturas last season in Patagonia and used Extreme Evos this year on his solo of Fitzroy.

 

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Me?

 

I'd go for a Extreme Evo with Goretex and a decent insulated supergaitor next time. And I got rid of my super gaitors 30 years ago! The Extreme will lace easier and fit better because of it and will be warmer in the long run because they breath. They'll climb better on hard mixed because of the tighter fit and with the sticky soles better on pure rock. And finally you can replace the supergaiter instead of the boot.

 

But they do look KOOL :)

 

afh.sized.jpg

 

All the bs, and opinions aside I suspect most will like the Batura just fine and you'll have warm feet. Finally the previous Trangos (any extreme model) or an Ice EVO modified with the addition of lace eyelets ditching the funky lace system both beat the shit out of the newest Prime.

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For those that have had problems getting the REI sale price and the right Trango.....

 

"No online deal or I couldn't find it awayway. But I know the boot is currently in the REI system. If you know your size just call one of the REI stores. I started with Seattle as I saw the boot there a week or so ago. If they don't have your size on hand have them check the SKEW # and see if there are any in your size in the REI computer system. In my case no more in Seattle but they found 3 pair of 45s for me this morning...2 pr. in Colorado and one pr. in California. I then called the store direct ( Seattle employee give me the phone #s) and 5 minutes later I had a pair coming to my home address via my credit card. When you are talking to the REI sales staff make sure it is the SILVER Trango Extreme Evo and the price is $249.83 and you'll then know you have the right boot."

 

Good luck!

 

Moosejaw? I saw the same thing last night which got me started on the hunt this morning. According to Moosejaw when i had them on the phone at 9AM this morning they no longer have any of the Trango Extreme Evos in stock. Although my computer and their web site still showed 3 pairs in my size in stock @ Moosejaw.

 

I went for a real person on the phone and the silver boot in the right size actually in their hand after going through this same run around last time.

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Not sure if it is still going on but last week when I was at REI here in SLC everything with a price that ended in .83 was an additional 1/2 off.

 

BTW - I tired the Balturas. The pair got was 1.2 size too small. Instead of getting the next size which had heal lift up I punted. After looking similar boots made by Kayland and Scarpa I felt the gaitor on the Sportivas was too tight. Tight material is more easily torn. Now I am looking at either Kayland or Scarpa.

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