spotly Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Can someone here point me to any info on the NE Buttress route on Gimli? Domo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 It's in the Columbia Mts West and South guidebook. Something like 8-10 modern pitches at 5.6 Traverse in from the right to the top of the ledge where it steepens then just left of the crest all the way up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted January 31, 2009 Author Share Posted January 31, 2009 Thanks G. That's probably all we need to know but I am curious about the guide book you mentioned. A Google search for variations of that title didn't bring up anything that looked correct. Is it still in print? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 Nope it was printed in 92 by the AAC. It's a shitty guide, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 Ooooh, that looks like fun... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 I've got Interior Ranges of British Columbia 1971 by the AAC and Interior Ranges of British Columbia South 1977 by the AAC and ACC. The 71 version says 1/2 mile SW of Mulvey Lake. First recorded ascent 1963 by Mrs. H Butling, R. Deane. M. Stewart, P. Williams. From camp at head of Robertson Creek. Over col S of Wolfs Ear and down 500' in narrow gully to talus-strewn meadows at head of Bannock Burn. Across 1/2 mi. to base and ridge to top. Though ridge steepens with elevation, no rope required. I hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted January 31, 2009 Author Share Posted January 31, 2009 "Though ridge steepens with elevation, no rope required." Is it mainly 3rd and 4th with just a move or two of 5.6? That's a nice looking area! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 That's the description for the east ridge, not the NE Butt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 I know, but that's all I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 Sunlight/shade line in this photo. Guidebook description: Northeast Ridge (III, 5.6). Gerry Brown, Frank Tarver, Aug 4 1969. From glacier to NW, traverse onto ridge and climb using the ridge and the ledges and cornerrs of the gully system about 10m west of the ridge. The final section is a 2.5m overhang with good holds, or, easier, traverse left onto the east face. Pitons and hexcentrics were used. Also if you can track down the 1998 BC Mountaineer there is a funny story involving a bumbling party getting benighted on this route in a thunderstorm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted February 4, 2009 Author Share Posted February 4, 2009 Thanks G-Spotter! Does the traverse to the base of the route start across the rubbly looking bench midway down and to the left of the glacier or does it start lower down and around the left of the little buttress at the bottom of the ridge? That's a great looking area! I'm hoping to get in a few climbs in Canada this year - they've been stagnating on my list for too long. Got Bugaboo Spire scheduled and looking at Sir Donald too. Now this comes along and...guess it never ends, which is a good thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 It's basically the highest snow ledge going left, like if you were standing at the very base of the shadowed north face and followed the moat left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigtree Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 Good TR and pics here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/822881/Searchpage/1/Main/61461/Words/gimli/Search/true/Re_TR_Gimli_South_Ridge_7_26_2#Post822881 More good stuff here: http://lamountaineers.org/NAC/browserf/climbs/gimli/beta.htm Its on my tic list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 Ummm... those are for the South Ridge (the other side of the damn mountain) not the NE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigtree Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 Hmmm, you're right. I guess I got all frothy mouthed as soon as I read Gimli and and my brain stopped working. Ah well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 Any idea what it's like to start from the bottom instead of traversing in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 It looked like a low angle super polished pitch and then a bunch of rubble walking on the terrace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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