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DPS

[TR] Chair Peak - NE Buttress 1/25/2009

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Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress

 

Date: 1/25/2009

 

Trip Report:

Seemingly half of Seattle and all of Everett convereged on the NE Buttress on Sunday. Conditons on the buttress were the easiest I have yet seen with good neve and decent ice and enough exposed rock to offer reliable pro.

 

Although conditions were ripe for a goat rodeo of an unprecedented scale every one got along and things worked out pretty well as a collegiate atmosphere prevailed.

 

Gear Notes:

4 ice screws, mostly shorties, couple kb/bugaboo pins, few small-medium nuts, cams .5, .75, 1.

 

Approach Notes:

No floatation necessary - easy peasy.

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Apparently there were more inquiring minds than I thought. Sorry about that, Dan. Glad to hear everyone got along, no cut ropes and ice tool fights. Was anyone brave enough to get on the N. Face?

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Thakns for the beta; I would have climbed the Tooth if you had not posted your trip report.

 

A pair of climbers walked under the NF then walked back to the NE buttress. I suspect all parties climbed the NE Butt, but I could be mistaken.

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Did you take the right hand line or the left? We went right. Six parties is more than I expected but it went well. Did you take any pics? I forgot my camera.

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We did the right hand line.My partner took photos, I'll see if I can post them.

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Nice TR! I was looking over at Chair from Snoqualmie Peak Saturday thinking the buttress looked in condition. The snow on my side of the valley was nice and firm. I hope it stays in shape for a week or two...I'd like to have a go (without the crowd if possible) IMG_0079.JPG

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Pete and I had it to ourselves yesterday, save for gobs of steps from Source Lake to the Thumbtack. Must have been a crowd over the weekend indeed.

 

"Stampeding climbers? That's not much of a crime."

 

"Through the Vatican?"

 

"Kinky!"

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We also took the right/standard line. The left line looked really good and intriguing - at least one team maybe two took it on Sunday. I was going to do it too, but although the climbing looked good, the pro was pretty thin so I backtracked and went right.

 

IMGP0124.JPG

 

IMGP0126.JPG

 

IMGP0127.JPG

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took the left line on saturday... it took screws fine. i think going left will thin out the rack a bit. in total we used 4 screws, 2 small nuts, one picket and a couple long slings for trees.

 

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It was nice having it to ourselves on Monday and getting a little sunshine too. My first time on Chair, really cool. Here's a few shots of Jared.

IMG_19561.JPG

IMG_1974.JPG

IMG_1985.JPG

Take 'er easy,

Pete

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