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John Frieh

[TR] Ice Bender - First Ascents 1/10/2009

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Trip: Ice Bender - First Ascents

 

Date: 1/10/2009

 

Summary:

Jan 2: PDX -> BZN

Jan 3: New route development with Joe Josephson (JoJo), Brian Schmitz and Pete Tapley

Jan 4: First Ascent of Home Field Advantage WI5 M6+. Hyalite Canyon Main Fork

Jan 5: BZN -> Cody; Cabin Fever

Jan 6: Broken Hearts + 3/4 of My Only Valentine + 1/2 of The Left Ventricle

Jan 7: Deer Creek hike and bail due to avy; rest day

Jan 8: Legg Creek hike and bail due to avy; Stringer full. Cody -> BZN

Jan 9: First Ascent of Mustache Ride WI4. Hyalite Canyon Main Fork.

Jan 10: BZN -> PDX

 

Details:

Not as productive a trip as Bryan and I had originally hoped for but given the avy conditions in Cody during our visit we were happy to climb what we did without getting the chop.

 

But I'm getting ahead of myself... this trip started in Hyalite! We connected with JoJo and Pete for a line that the two of them had been scoping for the past few years or so that is hidden away climbers left of G2.

 

A combination of cold temps (high of -5 one day) and lack of battery power resulted in two days instead of one equipping Home Field Advantage before it was completed.

 

The original idea behind the name was you basically had to be a local to know about this climb (you cant see it from the parking lot and more or less have to be lost to stumble across it) but given that I the non local botched the onsight but Pete and Bryan sent Home Field Advantage seemed an appropriate name. :laf: :laf:

 

More HFA info here

 

The boys:

boys.JPG

 

Pete sending:

Pete_2.JPG

 

Pete1.JPG

 

Bryan sending:

BryanHFA.JPG

 

Non local:

johnHFA.JPG

 

Pig in space:

PIGinSPACE.JPG

 

whip.JPG

 

I really cant find the words to convey how cool it was to be a part of something with two ice climbing heros of mine. Bryan and I were talking about how not even a few years ago JoJo and Pete were nothing more than names associated with hard routes we wanted to climb in Hyalite or CAN... it was a very cool experience for both of us to say the least! Many thanks JoJo and Pete! :rawk:

 

After BZN we headed to Cody... another ice climbing hero of mine Aaron Mulkey was kind enough to let us crash at his place. Many thanks Aaron! :rawk:

 

The same day we made the drive we opted to climb Cabin Fever.

 

Cabin Fever:

cabin.JPG

 

cabin1.JPG

 

As Cody had a TON of snow the rap bolts were buried so we had to improvise and dig a deadman to rap off.

 

Mountie Skillz in da hillz! Deadman rap anchor sucka! :laf: :laf: :wazup:

deadman.JPG

 

rap.JPG

 

The next day we headed for Broken Hearts. We either soloed or simul climbed the first 4 pitches.

 

Broken Hearts are for assholes (Bonus: name that song):

BryanBH.JPG

 

Which brings us to pitch 5... you get to choose between these two...

 

Damned if you do... Damned if you dont.

damn.JPG

 

I went with damned if you dont (or My Only Valentine is what you'll find it in the book as) and guess what... I feel off. Way after the Crux. Third fall for the year... first fall on an ice screw. I suck. :(

 

MOVback.JPG

 

window.JPG

 

Post whip:

MOVpostwhip.JPG

 

After my whip we ran over to The Left Ventricle but a lack of rock gear prevented us from sending so he headed home.

 

Left Ventricle:

leftvent.JPG

 

The next day we headed up Deer Creek but avy conditions convinced us to bail and take a much needed rest day.

 

After the rest day we headed up Legg Creek for a swing @ Ovisight but avy conditions killed that idea so we came back out and ran over and simul soloed Stringer.

 

baa with horns???

sheep.JPG

 

Stringer:

string.JPG

 

Bryan following:

stringBryan.JPG

 

Final pitch of Stringer:

stringBryantop.JPG

 

stringBryantop1.JPG

 

After Stringer we packed the bags and headed back to BZN as the avy wasnt getting any better in Cody.

 

On Jan 9 we set out to climb Celo's but on the hike noticed a new pillar in the amphitheater climbers left of White Zombie and Thin Chance. As it was Bryan's birthday we suspected Hyalite was giving Bryan a birthday present!

 

Mustache Ride WI4:

MR.JPG

 

MR1.JPG

 

Of course it wouldnt be a proper ice bender without some blood...

ugl.JPG

 

That evening we celebrated 2 FAs in a week + Bryan's 24th bday with approximately the same amount of carbs I consumed the 3 weeks prior :crazy::brew: :brew:

 

Good times indeed.

 

Gear Notes:

Avy poodle

Spare drill batteries

Belay skillz

 

Approach Notes:

Hyalite Canyon road is now plowed regularly thanks in part to those of you that support the SMCC and/or the PDX Ice Festival. Consider making a donation today!

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awesome duuuude :)

 

Same here except I got an S at the end of duuuuude! Schweet schtuff John and Bryan!

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Maybe I should have said - do you STILL have a jorb?

 

Anyway, that's rad they let you out to go climbing so much. I'm jealous.

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Still here!

 

It helps that assuming I time my trips correctly that I can continue to work while on the road.

 

Speaking of... assuming the temps cooperate Cody should be SUPER FAT really soon... if anybody is interested in putting together a trip shoot me a PM... Ill do my best not to whip :laf:

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If I would have had a drink in my mouth when I saw that "Pig in Air" picture I would have spit it out all over my work computer. Thats pretty darn funny.

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"Home Field Advantage" has turned into an instant classic. Half a dozen repeats already. Overall, Hyalite is in great shape with lots of ice free of avalanche hazard. G1 is virtually one complete sheet of ice. It's unreal. Cleo's/Scepter/Dribbles/Thrill is Gone/Champagne along with the rest of the usual suspects are all in perfect nick. Good donkey trails getting around now too.

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Hard to say if "Home Field Advantage" will still be around in a few weeks. It gets a lot of sun. Last weekend when I was up there, the top ice was already getting smaller. Don't know if the freeze will keep up with the melt. Regardless of conditions, you can still top rope whatever is left, thin veneer in the crack and great cobbles, as well as the TR cobble routes to the right or the left. Climb the moderate mixed, big groove on the right to reach the anchor/tree. The thin ice route in the next alcove above, "Through Four More," is a great, short climb as well.

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Yo, Frieh,

 

Not to dwell on your second whipper - but was the screw you fell on above or below the large fracture line on that right-hand column?

 

And because I love giving people @@@@ for it - would either fall have happened if you were wearing leashes??? ;)

 

Nice work getting out so much. I think this winter will go down as a bust for me - too much work, not enough time.

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was the screw you fell on above or below the large fracture line on that right-hand column?

 

Below

 

would either fall have happened if you were wearing leashes??? ;)

 

If you ask me I think a lack of pre trip endurance fitness (aka not enough time in the rock gym) due to a twisted ankle and picking up another house were more to blame than lack of leashes. Sure I could have busted them out and clipped in if I was getting stupid pumped but I think if I would have used them @ the start of the route (both of them) I would have pumped earlier (esp. Home Field Advantage)... both were very technical at the start... lots of tool matching/etc etc.

 

I'm still convinced leashless is the way to go :)

 

And who's available to climb in Feb? :wazup:

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john, going on the 12th-22nd. Planning to climb with pete some.

Edited by Lambone

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Just got back from Bozeman tonight. Must go back... February couldn't come soon enough.

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John-

 

I'm in Bozeman climbing thru March and traveling up to Alberta and down to Cody from there. No commitments, free to climb any day during that time. PM me. Chris.

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Hey, John,

 

Not as productive a trip as Bryan and I had originally hoped for but given the avy conditions in Cody during our visit we were happy to climb what we did without getting the chop.

 

Such is the life of an ice climber ;) Glad you got something done there, and had a good time doing it. Hope to drag Stewart to Hyalite this next weekend for a couple of days of climbing.

 

Sounds like a great season for Hyalite!

 

Cheers,

Chad

 

 

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