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first ascent [TR] Hope - FA Blue Moose (90m WI3+) 12/22/2008

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Trip: Hope - FA Blue Moose (90m WI3+)


Date: 12/22/2008


Trip Report:

Tyler Linn and I climbed a new route near Hope today.

The climb forms on the lower slopes of Hope Mountain about 200m west of the Thacker Creek drainage and I have been eying it for several years. A steep curtain at the base that doesn't always form leads to rolling ramps. You can only see it briefly from the highway but from the east side of Hope near the Coquihalla Bridge on Kawkawa Lake Road it is very obvious.


It looked like the curtain had touched down so Tyler and I headed up after a bit of a gong show involving me forgetting my tools in Chilliwack and driving back to grab them. You can't park at the base on the highway so we ended up parking at the Hope crematorium and walking along the highway to the route. A better spot would have been to park near the gas pipeline office. You turn off the highway right at a sign saying "Next Services 100 km" and bushwack up to the climb in about 15 or so minutes.




Route line from the highway.



Route from the base.


The direct pillar was touching down but was sadly spitting wet and horribly chandeliered and I didn't fancy leading it. Neither did Tyler. However I found a dry line along the very left margin, steep with good rests for 20m and then a narrow chimney/ramp line with some tricky and delicate footwork on a narrow ice vein combined with moss drytooling. I belayed after 30m in a clump of bushes and dealt with a loose crampon. Tyler led through on the next pitch which was a long rambly ramp, snowy but with a steep 15m high WI3 in the middle.


We walked off to the east (towards Thacker Creek - skiier's right of the climb) down through steep forest, no rappels necessary.



Ass shot of me reaching the ramp.


The climb was pretty good, the direct column will also be a fine line with short approach when it comes in.


Most everything else is in around Hope and the Fraser Valley in general and should last till Friday.


Gear Notes:

Eight screws or so, a few 10 and 13cms are useful.


Approach Notes:

See trip report.

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Jeez, The pillar is the bomb. I am sure you will be back for it.There is some sick looking stuff on the way up to Snoq right now.

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