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Lucky Larry

[TR] columbia river gorge - any 12/14/2008

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anyone got conditions report for 2day? did shit fall apart too much after the past day of warmness? looks like higher temps will be in to stay after the weekend :(

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Ivan, I think you mean "How many dumbasses can you find" rather than "How many climbers can you find" in your picture. Lucky no one was hurt. I witnessed a similar thing several years ago on the same climb except someone broke their arm from falling ice from a climber above them. Maybe that is why I was climbing away from the zoos on ice with no one around!

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Climbed at Mist today along with 4 or 5 other parties. Mist is in similar condition to Tuesday (ice is decent, but the temps were a bit warm). From 84, Crown Jewel definitely doesn't look as good as before (thinner at top and more exposed rock), but it's still there.

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Stop being a sissy. Try climbing Professor or similar in Canada - that amount of traffic is SOP, only there would be people soloing through.

 

How can you compare the Professor to Crown Jewel? Nothing similar at all. Professor is multipitch steps and a classic route. Tons of traffic, yes, but very safe as the pitches are spread out. Crown Jewel is a POS WI 2-3 and while I won't look a gift horse in the mouth when it comes in so close to Portland, I also wouldn't get on it directly underneath someone like Ivan's photo shows. If someone is climbing the right while another party is on the left, fine. But to climb directly underneath another party in shitty ice conditions is stupid. Maybe you should quit spraying and get off your ass and actually climb somethig once. Ever posted a TR? Ever put up any pics? NO and no. Rookie.....

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Before that pic was taken a leader took a fist size chunk of ice to the head, said ouch, and finished the lead. looked like it hurt

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AAAAARGGGHHHH

 

This is the cc.com I remember and love. Time for another session at mist falls to unwind? bwahaha

 

a leader took a fist size chunk of ice to the head, said ouch, and finished the lead

 

omg he said ouch? I assume the paramedics were called

Edited by Cobra_Commander

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Climbed a bit on Crown Jewel 12/19/08 from 1400 to 1730ish. Not sure what good ice is but I can say this: There was less ice than on Tuesday depth any where from 1" to 7" on the lower stuff. did not climb higher than 40' water was running on the top climbers right and under the ice on climbers right. we heard from some other guys that a car got towed from the no parking spot on I-84. we parked in the roster rock lot. ($3) anyone know how to put pics up on this? have some of the ice

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=43036&size=big&cat=505

 

peace.

b

Edited by bozeb

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...I also wouldn't get on it directly underneath someone like Ivan's photo shows. If someone is climbing the right while another party is on the left, fine. But to climb directly underneath another party in shitty ice conditions is stupid.

 

There were a few accidents - what two years back - from folks doing exactly this sort of thing on CJ. I would have thought folks would have learned from that season...

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...I also wouldn't get on it directly underneath someone like Ivan's photo shows. If someone is climbing the right while another party is on the left, fine. But to climb directly underneath another party in shitty ice conditions is stupid.

 

There were a few accidents - what two years back - from folks doing exactly this sort of thing on CJ. I would have thought folks would have learned from that season...

whatever you're comfortable w/ - we werent', so waited - they were, so nailed their climb and were back sucking down fruity drinks w/ umbrellas in them while we were still on an increasingly sloppy swamp-side cliff - not certain who made the best call really :)

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Kind of like driving in Portland when it snows--it's not the snow and ice that's dangerous, it's the idiots on the road who have no business being out there.

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Ever posted a TR? Ever put up any pics? NO and no. Rookie.....

 

Hmmm, do you really not know the Commander?

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Mist Falls is in.

I climbed it on 12/16.

Today(12/20)I led the left of center route.

Right up the bulge.

First ground up lead this season.

I top roped it on the 16th. And then Sport led it.

So it was a red point I guess.

Can you call it an on sight since the ice is different everyday?

Set 9 screws. Most were long.

Ground out one on the rock. Ouch.

The chandeliers up top were not too bad.

The right side there was a lot of ice fall but none from the top.

Even though the wind was Nukeing.

All of 40 mile an hour wind gusts.

Were were able to top rope the ice pillars just to right of us.

Stemming between the two.

It was awesome.

No falls.

I am so amped I won't sleep for a week.

 

Plaidman

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# of folks on the wa side 2day - blake, crackman, marcus and others - geoff, beaconben and i climbed the upper tier upon the advice of tim'n'blake, who were enjoying the lower tiers - popped my water-ice lead cherry - i'm so proud i feel like a little girl :P

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Where are you going? I-84 closed and Highway 14 closed. I'm about ready to run the hose off the side of the house.

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If I had a snowmobile I think I would be trying to get back into Strobach Mtn. If its in.

 

That's a pretty big If. I'm not planning on heading there anytime soon. :)

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I spoke with a climber in Yakima last Thursday who said none of that stuff was in. Cold enough but not enough H2O.

Edited by Tydog

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Just got back from the Gorge, and there's still climbing to be had. The Old Historic Hwy is still getting plowed all the way to Crown Point and down past Mult. Falls, so you don't need to get on 84.

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Right on - thanks for the road report man! I'm calling in sick to work tomorrow (ice fever = rare, but highly contagious) so it's nice to know we can get to the goods without having to break out the taun tauns.

 

tauntaun.jpg

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