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Lucky Larry

[TR] columbia river gorge - any 12/14/2008

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New to Oregon and the NW but heard that the ice scene should be epic this week. Looking for ice climbing partners that know the area and would be willing to get in some routes this holiday season. I have all my own gear with the exception of ice pro. cell: 415-516-1370

 

If anyone needs a rope gun...just kidding, but it does look sick.

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A little haiku...

 

 

"Gorge ice, a precious treasure!

Two days driving, bare rock and snow

Crown Jewel? Slush consolation..."

 

The wet-n-windy Gorge classic was climbed today with 13cms and a little patience, so go get er - but please remember:

 

1) Respect RR property and hike in via Rooster Rock SP(~30min). Don't screw up access for everyone just because you're lazy!

 

2) Leave our cordelette and biner for others to safely rappel from(climber's right, 10ft past topout).

 

3) P1 bolt anchor climber's left on ledge, 40m(iced over - chop em out)

 

4) Neutral colored clothing attracts way less attention and hassle for everyone on this highly visible climb.

 

5) Call your mom and tell her you love her.

 

Here's what I've seen as of 12/16...

 

Cape Horn Gullys: Yes

Salmon Run: No

Strand: No

Pete's Pile: No

Starvin' Marvin: No

Ainsworth Left: No

Lower Mist Falls: Yes(but why?)

Kearney Route: No

Pump House Blues: Yes

Tatras: Yes

Black Dagger: No

Crown Jewel: Yes

Tunnel Vision: Yes

 

 

 

 

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5) Call your mom and tell her you love her.

 

:lmao:

 

hey, isn't walking on the interstate and hiking the tracks still illegal? seems like the access is shitty no matter how you do it.

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Hey John - I thought you were gonna post some condition reports and photos? We know you've been out there....but where are you now?

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Packing for tomorrow :)

just finished sharpening my shit - where you gonna be 2morrow john? damn, but the forecast is for the drive home 2morrow to be entertaining!

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My co-worker Forest and I enjoyed some late afternoon, early evening climbing on Crown Jewel yesterday. Conditions were great! The ice is coming in nicely and of course, will only get better!

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I'm all in for tomorrow, just not too keen on climb locations. don't have a guide book, although I realise most of it is viewable from the road.

Wa. ice guidebook have info?

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jrco got some today at mist falls. Lots of falling ice to climbers left. Looks like 4 or 5 lines are in.

 

 

 

Picture taken of random climber on Tuesday. Things were thicker today.Picture_0054.jpg

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lots of traffic at crown jewel today - very warm toward evening - fantastically plastic ice, albeit coursing w/ water - oughta be real nice again when the cold snaps back in!

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ok - not gonna beg fer hard earned local beta...but how worthwhile is it to come up from down south...and just drive down the gorge looking for lines? Dumb question? Waste of a day?

 

Lost my copy of the only guidebook I had that had any gorge ice in it...

 

Might make the drive regardless...getting desperate enough...

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here's crown jewel at the height of rush hour y-day - how many climbers can you find? :)

n1046991382_230058_8404.jpg

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Got some pics of some guys climbing on what I think is Mist falls just East of Crown Point on 12/16/08 in the afternoon from the RR Tracks. Anyone know who it was? I was going to give the 2 guys some pics and videos I took of them. Anyone been out today to see how the ice is with this warming going on?

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Anyone get out today (Thursday)? Apparently I'm a pessimist, but I suspect everything is toast after the rain and overnight-above-freezing temps.

 

I'm tired of the NW ice tease.

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anyone want partnership 2morrow? my school just got cancelled, so xmas break has officially started :)

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But...but...but Ben has kids?
Just give em a grahm cracker, a blankie and a few old ice screws and crampons to play with and be sure to lock all the car doors. Kids are resilient, they'll be fine in the car for a day or three.

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