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Chair Peak, North Face...


LostCamKenny

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Greetings to all who view or respond! I'm looking for beta on Chair Peak's North Face route... Never done it and am planning to try in February 09, but I'd like to hear about it from someone/anyone who has done it. I'm most interested in the approach and descent, but any beta concerning gear and pro is gladly welcome.

 

Cheers!

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Instead of hiking the Snow Lakes trail, find a service road out of Alpental which always seems to be well-packed and could save you some effort getting into the valley. With a 50 or 60 meter rope, if snow is not well consolidated, you might find the second belay doesn't offer great anchors. I'm sure many options exist, but we found ourselves simulclimbing so the leader could reach good anchors. Probably stretching the first pitch would avoid these problems. For the descent, we belayed down a gully to the south. You may find a piton rap station.

 

I've been up there a few times and never found spectacular snow and ice. On my first trip we climbed the east face and enjoyed perfect sticks with adequate ice screw protection.

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