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Mtnclimber

Canadian Rockies.

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The Canadian Rockies should be in shape sooner this year(July/Aug). Would anyone be interested in North/ Kain face of Mt. Robson or any other grade IV climbs in the Rockies.

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I would be available the last two weeks of August to head up into the Canadain Rockies to tick off 1 or 2 of the 50 classics in the IV/5.6 range and/or something +/- a grade or class of which there are more options:

Mt Sir Donald III 5.2

Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7

Mt Robson, Wishbone Arete V 5.6

Mt Edith Cavell,TNF IV 5.7

Mt Alberta, Japanese Route IV 5.6

Mt Temple, East Ridge IV 5.6

Reply and we'll talk about the possibilities.

 

 

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OOOOh... sorry to be pedantic but....THE BUGABOOS ARE NOT PART OF THE ROCKIES!!!! They are in the "Interior Ranges", so there.

When offering number grades, Wishbone Arete at 5.6 and Japanese Route on Alberta, ditto, is like calling the North Face of the Eiger, 5.7, it might be somewhat true technically, but it doesn't do the route justice.

[This message has been edited by Dru (edited 07-10-2001).]

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I thought the Interior range were renamed to the Columbia Mtns.

I've done the Wishbone and the N Face of EC. You better be able to handle changing weather, bad rock with lots of run out and be able to solo easy but scary ice/snow. The rock is better on EC. They are both long routes. Solo as much as you can. Move, Move, Move!!!

[This message has been edited by AlpineK (edited 07-11-2001).]

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I can split hairs, too. Sir Donald isn't in the Rockies either. If I were you, I'd start with Sir Donald (can be done in a day). Bugaboo East is even less committing but requires more time (usually spent waitng for weather). You tick 2 of the remaining 4 and you're a big hitter. Check out the east ridge of Edith Cavell, an unsung classic 5.4 on solid quartzite that may have a bit of easy snow/ice near the top. Almost as good as Sir Donald.

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Good point Viktor & Capt. Congrats on the Cash Crags traverse by the way Capt. .

Also its the NE ridge of Bugaboo, not the east ridge. Bugaboo doesnt even have an east ridge!!

Also, planning on using "50 Classic climbs" as a guidebook, you deserve what you get - I won't say any more...

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What happened to Purcells and Selkirks? Or are those subranges? Didn't climb it, but Sir Donald looked pretty cool from Abbot Ridge.

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The Purcells, Selkirks are all subranges of the Columbia Mtns I believe (along with the Cariboos, Bugaboos, etc...).

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The Interior Ranges includes all mountains between the Columbia Valley/Rocky Mountain Trench, and the Okanagan. this includes the "Columbia Mts", Monashees, Purcells, Selkirks, Adamants, Valhallas, etc. etc.

Just like the Coast Mountains includes the Pacific Ranges, Lillooet Ranges, Kitimat Ranges etc. and the Pacific Ranges includes the Tantalus Range, Spearhead Range, etc blah blah

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Your Canuck buddy Chic Scott lists all those mountains as the Columbia Mtns in Summits and Icefields. They are the same mountains that are listed in the clasic Interior Ranges North & South guides.

[This message has been edited by AlpineK (edited 07-13-2001).]

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Chic Scott and I don't get along that well. Find out why in the book review column of the 2001 Canadian Alpine Journal.

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My wife and I climbed Mt. Victoria a couple years ago and stayed 2 nights at the Abbott Pass Hut. Chic Scott was the care taker during our time there. He was a cool guy. Very mellow, had a lot of interesting stories to tell and was obviously, very knowledgeable about the area. Didn't read his book or Dru's review, but Chic is allright by me.

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I've got nothing against him personally but his history of canadian mountaineering book is kind of fucked when it comes to the coast and bc in general.

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