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Dan_Larson

guye peak or tooth

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Recently finished mtnrs. basic course and looking for partners . Last week did tooth and would like to do it again or guye peak . also looking for Rainier partners . trip today got weathered out .I have no transportation (wife uses car for work) but will cover the gas generously. Any other ideas for climbs I'm open . Busy this month but am off here and there until july. I am off this mon.11th and fri.15th....Dan

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Hey I dont want to climb but, if you get on guye peak bring a helmet, its chossy but much more enjoyable than the tooth, do the improbable traverse its super fun, route finding is kinda tricky though,nic

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Listen to Freak: wear your helmet!!!!

[This message has been edited by Dwayner (edited 06-10-2001).]

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I did the Impropable Traverse last year. I agree lots of fun. I don't remember any 1/4 inch bolts .We just used natural pro. Three knifeblades on the traverse.First one sure was thin plenty of places for other pro also. Yeah maybe you should start a little easier Dan . It is a route with alot of exposure . I think the guide says 5.7. I thought it was really pretty easy maybe one 5.7 move. By the way my partner following on the traverse had my camera and dropped it . Needless to say my camera was toast.

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Thanks for the warning but Guye peak is listed as a basic climb , one that basic students use for credit in the course .

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Dan...Enjoy the mountains. Learn what you can from the Mountaineers. Good luck!

- Dwayner

[This message has been edited by Dwayner (edited 06-10-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Dwayner (edited 06-10-2001).]

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Hey Dwayner,

It sounds like your just upset because no one wants you as a mentor. Get over it, your barking up the wrong tree.

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Holy Shit! I am constantly amazed at the ridiculous bullshit and spray here.

Listen kids, grow up! Larson is done with the mountaineers and wants a partner...........cool. Dwayner gave some sweet beta, which is something that is more valuable than you could ever ask for. Why doesn't someone call the freakin WAHmbulance!

As far as egos go, we all got them! Who knows, many of the folks here could be damn armchair climbers, maybe I am? Screw that, I am not a climber, I actually just graduated from a Glacier Climbing Course, and gonna take it one step at a time. So I think if I EVER need beta, this is the place to come for sure. So why can't we all just get along? (this is problably an absolute waste of my time to write as many have already visited this topic, but oh well) Keep climbing mountains and don't slip!

Scott

------------------

Scott Harder

scott@nwog.org

www.nwog.org

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I suppose your right I apologize if I offended anybody("D") I've been in a piss poor mood since I got turned around on Rainier by the weather (and out-voted)Sat A.M.I now have medical insurance and will be able to see that therapist my wife wants me to see. Anybody want to take an inspired, recently trained, good shape ,novice climber on the tooth or a reasonable route on guye peak. I did the tooth last week and was told I did well . I want to do more and become a better climber and get involved with this community (outside the mountaineers organization)>>>>>Dan

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Dan:

a lot of people who climb aren't willing to climb with beginners, because they are busy working on their own routes...I have definitely felt that way at times. But some people are willing to climb at any level, and those are the people that we all learned from at some point, right?

The percent of Mountaineer members that ARE willing to help bring a newer climber along is probably higher then the average group of climbers...Why else would some of the cooler and very skilled climbers I know give up some perfectly good climbing weekends each year to teach people the basics through the Mountaineers?

What I am trying to say is...while you risk not sounding cool, it might not be a good idea to slam the mountaineers too hard when you are looking for partners. You don't have to say that you love them, just don't mention it if you are so down on them. There are certain long rock routes that I would never climb with the Mountaineers group, because I think they can be too large and potentially slow, but I would certainly climb with people that I met there who are very involved in the organization.

I am personally always looking for more partners, the more the merrier, to climb easy stuff like the tooth, or hard stuff like 5.11 rock routes. When I look for partners I definitely look for someone that is fun and has a good attitude. In my opinion, acting like you are down on the group that just trained you isn't that appealing. And, since I taught at basic climbing several times this year and gave up perfectly good climbing days to do so, I don't appreciate it personally either.

So, good luck in finding partners and enjoy the mountains this year.

[This message has been edited by hollyclimber (edited 06-14-2001).]

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Hey Holly the mountaineers are a pain in the ass and the majority of the instruction was questionable at best according to what I studied in the text before the classes .Mostly out of shape guys that wanted an audience so go boo hoo somewhere else.xxxxooooo

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Mountaineer Intermediate Course students are REQUIRED to lead and instruct Basic Course students......an obligation to pay back the Mountaineers "community". A nice idea, but the problem is that one year after graduating from the Basic Course, you might be an Intermediate Course student leading one of these Basic Course climbs. That you found some of these guys to be incompetent is not surprising: some have no business teaching and leading climbs. On the other hand, you didn't pay for a professional guide. You were simply part of a BIG program which mass-produces graduates from its courses, and for the cost to you the student, you're getting a pretty good deal. But it's not the best or safest way to learn, just as public education isn't the best way for the individual child to learn.

I did meet some instructors in the Mountaineers who knew their stuff...some guided through RMI, some climbed rock confidently, some had been to Alasksa a couple of times. And the Mountaineers'Basic Course Curriculum, while a little thin on rock work, is designed to give the student an excellent start in acquiring the knowledge and skills to get up some snowy Cascade peaks. I'm amazed at the number of climbers I meet who lack these basic skills (map and compass work, ice axe arrest, roped travel on glaciers and snow slopes, hip belays and tying in without a harness). Anyway, you can get a lot out of the Basic Course, but it's like community college: you can pass knowing almost nothing, or you can be a serious student and learn an amazing amount.

[This message has been edited by pope (edited 06-14-2001).]

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Hollyclimber,

Did I miss something here? I'm still trying to figure out where in this thread that Dan "slammed" the mountaineers. Sounds like you were a bit on the sensitive side you hard 5.11 climbing person you.

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Most people I know who can honestly handle 5.11 climbs.....don't go around advertising the fact. On the other hand, most climbers I know who do a 5.11 in the Gym or at Exit 38 (OK, same thing, I know).....can't wait to tell you about it.

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O.K. Dans wife here........Holly, You have obviosly personalized Dan's banter (Outside Mountaineers). Dan had so so eloquaintly stated (the other day) how I felt 'he' needed a headshrinker although now I feel it may be you who needs some help. I would like to interject one more thing....Remember, You can only control YOUR emotions, not other actions, statements, or behaviors. LET IT GO!!

[This message has been edited by Dan Larson (edited 06-15-2001).]

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5.11's? I couldn't wait to tell everyone that I did the "tooth" but at least I'm on my way now.

[This message has been edited by Dan Larson (edited 06-15-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Dan Larson (edited 06-15-2001).]

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Its true that Dan didn't slam the mountaineers as much in this post as he did in one of his previous posts that said the same thing(that he wanted a partner for the tooth or guye peak).

I don't think we want to discuss the pros and cons of the mountaineers in this thread...we could talk about it for a long time. My point is really that if Dan hadn't said those negative things about the mountaineers, which came across to me as a little extra rude considering that he was recently a part of their program, I might have been interested in climbing with him.

I think that the attitude in the climbing community towards the mountaineers is unjustly negative and that some climbers think they have to say bad things about them to be accepted. I take a lot of crap from some of my non-mountaineers friends about my involvement in that organization.

I also think that the comments on this forum on my potential climbing ability from people who don't know me, which isn't even relevant to the topic, sort of illustrates that. I defend the mountaineers, I get slammed.

I wasn't trying to attack Dan. Maybe I should have emailed him personally, instead of posting my opinion on the board. Basically, I was just trying to say that a good attitude helps get climbing partners and that you never know when the person you might want to climb with actually helps out in the mountaineers.

Dan-I apologize if I offended you. I truly did not intend any kind of personal attack.

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