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Washington Ice Conditions


AlpineMonkey

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Craig first attempted it January 20th, 2007, and Jeff Street and I climbed it complete the next day (Jan 21st), along with the FA of Bleeder Project and an ascent of Ice Dreams. In the condition it was in at the time of the FA it was 4+. However, almost all the times I've ever seen it outside that season it's been considerably harder/more technical. The picture above shows perhaps typical conditions.

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Most of the climbs opposite Alpental looked "in" yesterday. Alpental 1 (first climb on the right) looked pretty fat (given usual conditions).

 

Note: We walked past these things at first light and didn't stop to inspect so treat this info accordingly.

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Craig first attempted it January 20th, 2007, and Jeff Street and I climbed it complete the next day (Jan 21st), along with the FA of Bleeder Project and an ascent of Ice Dreams. In the condition it was in at the time of the FA it was 4+. However, almost all the times I've ever seen it outside that season it's been considerably harder/more technical. The picture above shows perhaps typical conditions.

Thanks, Alex. My copy of The Guide is now updated.

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Most of the climbs opposite Alpental looked "in" yesterday. Alpental 1 (first climb on the right) looked pretty fat (given usual conditions).

 

Note: We walked past these things at first light and didn't stop to inspect so treat this info accordingly.

They are indeed in. Climbed Alpental 1 and Stellar Falls with Peakpimp today. Both took good screws. Stuff is coming in all over by the minute up in that neck of the woods right now.

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Last week I counted about a dozen climbable lines up in the Entiat River Road vicinity. Heres a few pics. Its hard to get good ones because of all the trees.

 

 

 

Entiat - Tyee Falls - the easiest looking approach is accross private property, not sure if climb is on private land

DSCN4476.jpg

 

Unclimbed/(or at least Unreported) Right of the road near mp 19, on Forest Land. There is a big turnout and a sign saying Forest Land and gives details of the area. I forgot what its called, Falls Creek? Maybe?

 

DSCN4472.jpg

 

What do Ardenvoirs Eat? Not sure if this climb really does have property issues or not, does not appear to. Looks super fat.

 

DSCN4469.jpg

 

Keep going up the road past mp21, you must walk or ski this and there are climbs absoultly everywhere. All unreported to my knowledge. Here is just one.

 

DSCN4467.jpg

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Did a few pitches of climbing on the ice @ Alpental and everything was good as of Thursday the 29th. I would get the climbng in while you still can though. It was nuking down rain on Friday, I know I was skiing in it, and I am not sure how much longer these climbs will stay in with the warm conditions.

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The Standard in Mazama is in. Fat. The Bear looks to be in the from the road. Gully to the left of Prime Rib is in, and reported to be thin- bring stubbies. Beard- nope. Childs route above the store looks sun baked and thin.

 

Will go check out some potentially new routes later in the week and will post back once we've had a go at them.

 

Of course, the warm up this week may make it all fall down.

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Thank you Wayne. fun fun fun

route is in great shape today, totally dryIMAG0583.JPGIMAG0590.JPG

gear was not the best in this section thoughIMAG0585.JPG

 

another fun option is to go up the slab then stay on slab out right to a fun topout.it can be seen out right on first photo IMAG0594.JPG

thanks again Wayne

Edited by Mercyful Fate
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