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Washington Ice Conditions


AlpineMonkey

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Climbed on Chinook pass yesterday and today at Practice Wall then Horse Tail Falls. Conditions were good but it started to rain at noon today. Unless it gets pretty cold tonight I bet Horse Tail will be out. Practice Wall and two climbs on the Great Wall look really good.

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Me, Sobo and Justin (summerprophet) joined the masses and climbed Fugs yesterday. It was very fat and wet. We tried climbed to climb the driest sections, which dictated the directions of our route. Finished off the left up the narrow sections, very fun. By the afternoon water was running down all of the ice. Frenchman falls had two big holes develop in the afternoon that weren't there in the morning.

 

These climbs will probably need another cold snap before they safe and climbable again. In my opinion.

 

Paul Detrick or anyone else,

 

Any news on Banks Lake area? Thanks.

Edited by kevino
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And for the record, Alpinfox, AlpineDave, and Jesse got on Frenchman Falls before it melted through. There's a huge hole just below the top-out right now that is douching the entire route.

 

Nice to have seen so many people getting out this past weekend. I hope to be making several more trips this winter, as opposed to my abysmal showing last winter. :rolleyes:

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Leavenworth

 

Driving down tumwater, a quick glimpse of Drury looked nice and fat. Most snow melt climbs further down tumwater looked pretty thin or snowy.

 

Mountaineers creek still needs a lot more melt. We saw maybe one climbable line while we were out skiing yesterday mid day.

CIMG5150.JPG

 

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Wet and wild looks very fat. Probably not much longer.

Bad photo:

CIMG5145.JPG

 

Icicle buttress is very snowy. Not sure how much ice is under there. Most other snow melt things in icicle looked thin or snowy.

 

The ice in and around rainbow and careno is the best i've ever seen it. Fat blue and yellow ice abounds. Three distinct lines at rainbow. At least two more at careno. We climbed the easy left side of rainbow right yesterday afternoon. Good pro, good ice, wi2+, 100' or so. Right side of rainbow right looks good. Rainbow left looks outstanding right now. Bouldered the first bit and found excellent ice.

 

CIMG5152.JPG

 

CIMG5161.JPG

Edited by TrogdortheBurninator
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Trogdor, did you actually climb the right side? When I climbed it tuesday there was no ice for the last 2-3 feet, making the top out near impossible.

 

Just for conditions update, went to umptanum tonight. The falls is completely iced over and looks climbable if lowered in (I was by myself and didn't wade through the pool). i climbed the drip though and it was pretty vertical, only a 2-3 foot wide pillar right now.

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I toproped a line at Franklin Falls on Monday. The main falls is still flowing - I don't know if it ever freezes up. We were almost all the way left on a solid bit. I don't have a photo of the line we climbed but it was WI 2.

 

IMG_1651.JPGIMG_1655.JPG

 

For a bunch of newbies, it was a good time. Setting up the top rope required a little work, but it was worth it.

 

 

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