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MH Direttissima versus Gregory Alpinisto


Mendizale

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I've been wanting a sweet, burly, versatile alpine pack for years now, and I've been offered a screaming deal on these two packs. They're both about 50 liters, and I'm sure they're made well. I've tried on the MH Dihedral, which is just a slightly lower volume version of the Direttissima, and I liked it's features well enough. It's fit, however, was blah: not bad, no weird spots, just didn't fit amazingly well, the way I want my only alpine pack to feel. I have a Gregory Triconi, and I like it a lot. I also love my Gregory Advent Pro, which has a similar Wrapter feature to the Alpinisto. But I won't get the opportunity to try the Alpinisto itself, and I've heard it's heavier than average (not a deal-breaker if it carries weight well), smallish feeling on the interior, and has a fairly inconsequential extension tube at the top, a fairly useful bivy pad, and a non-traditional daisy chain equivalent. Both packs have removable bonnets, hip belts, and frame sheets/stays.

 

Does anybody who owns, has used, or has other experiences with the ins and outs of either of these packs have any advice or comments? I'd be very thankful for any prompt help! Thanks in advance...

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This may or may not help. I've got a MH Directtissma and like it alot. Tried on (owned more over the years) a lot of similar packs before deciding on this one. Fits very well and carries heavy loads easily for me....way more weight than I'd ever climb with.

 

For even short approaches, with a night out, just to get on winter climbs, I wish I had a slightly bigger pack. Makes a fine pack for longer summer trips. Price was also very good.

 

 

 

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Big enough? We did a trip last winter in the Canadian Rockies that envolved a long day hike to get to the base of a good alpine ice climb. So we had some pins, screws, pons and tools of course and 3 days worth of food. Light bags for the temps and wearing most of our clothes even while moving. BD Firstlight tent and a MSR stove. Twin 8 for ropes.

 

Pretty much the same stuff you'd take any time of year other than the amount of layers to keep warm. So 2/3 days in spring/fall on something like Rainier would be easy with this pack.

 

I detest a heavy sack and still I ended up with just over 50#. Pack was full. So full I was ditching stuff last minute in the parking lot as I packed.

 

The details like the hauling sytem, the "inside" crampon pocket and the waist belt you can change out or pull all together are pretty trick as are the new school tool attachments. But I still took a much smaller/lighter pack to actually climb with.

 

 

I have used a Wild Things Andinista for years and love it but they could carry better. The MH Dir. is smaller but also carries better for me when completely full. Another pack worth looking at is the larger version of the Cilo work sacs.

 

 

Recently I did a much lighter version of the Directtissima at Marmot that I would consider as a "climbing" pack. I bought the Directtissima more as a load carring pack than a climbing pack. One of the reasons I thought it would be good for my own use is it appears to be pretty bomb proof in the heavier version.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have zero ezperience with these packs.

 

My view is, regarding relatively small packs is, it hardly matters what you've got.

 

I carried a Lowe "Snow Peak 50L" pack quite a bit and thought it was just okay. Then I switched to an MEC Brio 50L+ for a bit.

 

They are both pretty good. The MEC pack fits better.

 

MEC has frame sheet which I've removed for longer trips. If fits better and is slighhtly larger than Lowe pack, which came only in a single size.

 

These are fairly small packs and given reasonably minor weight, the choice is trivial. If you load them up, it may start to make a slight difference............

 

 

 

 

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I have used both packs. I ended up selling my direttissima very after half a season. I had the first alpinisto back in the 90s but decided to try the direttissima. Ultimately, the alpinisto rides and carries a load much better and has a far superior suspension system in my opinion. Also the alpinisto has a more narrow and vertical profile that lends to better posture and a less bulky set up in tight spaces on technical routes. Finally, I find that when carrying a full winter set up the alpinisto is far more user friendly with reinforced hypalon crampon patch, and beefier tool attachments. The alpinisto set up also allows you to tuck the picks of your tools behind the crampon patch reducing snags, torn gear etc. However, depending on what size pack you wear the alpinisto is slightly heavier and is slightly smaller(100 in3+/-). And I do miss the removable lid on the direttissima. Ultimately, all the bells and whistles aside, it comes down to how the pack rides. It just happened that I preferred the alpinisto.

 

Not that I recommend it, but I used the pack to hall all my shit for two weeks of climbing up to Colchuck Lake, the Enchantments, and Mt. Stuart. So in answer to your question about being adequate for 2-4 days both packs can handle heavier loads than you would want to climb with. Hope this helps.

Edited by leviticusjones
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