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t_rutl

Need some solid Whitehorse info...

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was up month before last but got a late start and hit the turn around mark at High Pass...question though for those who have hit it...how's the rock scramble up the summit block? is the class 3/4 that is noted or the 5.0+ that some claim?

 

tia

 

-T

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I've climbed it twice. Once in the winter of 95 with sugar snow to the summit. Left a picket on top. The second time was in July 03 or 04? Un-roped on the glacier. The tip of the 'shrund collapsed under our weight while we sussed the rock. We were lucky. http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=1430&size=big&cat=500&ppuser=1262

 

My guess is that if you are asking questions you should go loaded for bear. I don't think the frontal rock pitch will protect well. The second will be whistling though.

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alright...thanks for the info man...plan was to take advantage of this nice little weekend weather window...hump it out today up to Lone Tree and summit tomorrow...gotta love it when your climbing partner delays things until noon and you gotta call it off...looks like a winter ascent it is...

 

when the snow recedes and that thing gets exposed late in the year...it worth bringing any rock pro?

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Did it twice few years ago; once in late May, and then once in mid April

May ascent: bergshrund (30+feet from top) was too wide to surmount, and we had to hit rocks to the right (4th-5th class?) No pro, short rope. Rapped off summit and over shrund.

April ascent: snow to within 6feet of the summit, iced up rock thereafter; downclimbed with hand line.

At this point, propably wait until it's burried in 2-3 months, and take someone strong; it'll still be 12hrs day!

Good luck!!!

 

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I would recommend waiting until springtime and bringing skis.

 

IMG_1824.JPG

 

Useless advice I know but skiing sure sounds better than unprotected 5th :)

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no doubt...thanks for the info gents...appreciate it

 

and no kidding...skiing sounds a hell of a lot better that unprotected 5th!

 

peace

t

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I skied it in February and it was amazing. The climb is a bit of work, but I would think going up the Whitehorse Glacier, staying right in the basin to get around the cliffs at the bottom, then climbing up to the summit would be better than the other route which is pretty circuitous. Not too bad, but a good day and very condition dependent.

 

Here's a TR from the day I was up there with some nice pics and story? It's a wonderful mountain.

 

WHITEHORSE FEBRUARY TRIP REPORT

 

DSC_4772.jpg

DSC_4945.jpg

DSC_5019.jpg

DSC_5050.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by AllYouCanEat

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Over five thousand feet of goodness left at least fifteen hundred feet of hell. Icy slopes led to icier slopes ridden with avalanche paths that were even harder still. I felt like a teenager groping my way into a girlfriends skirt and being slapped hard for my miscreant ways.

 

Great TR and photos. I especially enjoyed this little gem of imagery.

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