t_rutl Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 was up month before last but got a late start and hit the turn around mark at High Pass...question though for those who have hit it...how's the rock scramble up the summit block? is the class 3/4 that is noted or the 5.0+ that some claim? tia -T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klar404 Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 I've climbed it twice. Once in the winter of 95 with sugar snow to the summit. Left a picket on top. The second time was in July 03 or 04? Un-roped on the glacier. The tip of the 'shrund collapsed under our weight while we sussed the rock. We were lucky. http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=1430&size=big&cat=500&ppuser=1262 My guess is that if you are asking questions you should go loaded for bear. I don't think the frontal rock pitch will protect well. The second will be whistling though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t_rutl Posted October 25, 2008 Author Share Posted October 25, 2008 alright...thanks for the info man...plan was to take advantage of this nice little weekend weather window...hump it out today up to Lone Tree and summit tomorrow...gotta love it when your climbing partner delays things until noon and you gotta call it off...looks like a winter ascent it is... when the snow recedes and that thing gets exposed late in the year...it worth bringing any rock pro? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marek Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 Did it twice few years ago; once in late May, and then once in mid April May ascent: bergshrund (30+feet from top) was too wide to surmount, and we had to hit rocks to the right (4th-5th class?) No pro, short rope. Rapped off summit and over shrund. April ascent: snow to within 6feet of the summit, iced up rock thereafter; downclimbed with hand line. At this point, propably wait until it's burried in 2-3 months, and take someone strong; it'll still be 12hrs day! Good luck!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fresh Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 I would recommend waiting until springtime and bringing skis. Useless advice I know but skiing sure sounds better than unprotected 5th Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t_rutl Posted October 29, 2008 Author Share Posted October 29, 2008 no doubt...thanks for the info gents...appreciate it and no kidding...skiing sounds a hell of a lot better that unprotected 5th! peace t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllYouCanEat Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 (edited) I skied it in February and it was amazing. The climb is a bit of work, but I would think going up the Whitehorse Glacier, staying right in the basin to get around the cliffs at the bottom, then climbing up to the summit would be better than the other route which is pretty circuitous. Not too bad, but a good day and very condition dependent. Here's a TR from the day I was up there with some nice pics and story? It's a wonderful mountain. WHITEHORSE FEBRUARY TRIP REPORT Edited November 5, 2008 by AllYouCanEat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkporwit Posted November 5, 2008 Share Posted November 5, 2008 Over five thousand feet of goodness left at least fifteen hundred feet of hell. Icy slopes led to icier slopes ridden with avalanche paths that were even harder still. I felt like a teenager groping my way into a girlfriends skirt and being slapped hard for my miscreant ways. Great TR and photos. I especially enjoyed this little gem of imagery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t_rutl Posted November 10, 2008 Author Share Posted November 10, 2008 brilliant...absolutely brilliant... pics are amazing my friend...dang... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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