RideT61 Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 I was just looking thought the Sky Valley guidebook got to wondering if anyone has repeated Amandla? I always look at it and think I'd have a better chance to climb City Park (which I have no chance of doing). Has anyone outhere given her a go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 i beleive sonnie trotter sent it, i'm sure others have to. ben g added an extension to it about a year ago that clocks in at 13+R, The Full Amandla: "The extension adds 40 feet of climbing and tackles hard climbing passing the original anchor, pulls the center of the next roof ,and finishes with tenuous sidepulls. Aside from the new fix sport anchor at the top, I only added one bolt just over the lip of the roof. There is at least one good RP placement just prior to the final crux. I've led the entire thing without the RP, but it was scary. Parties can lower with 70m rope." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 (edited) I haven't done it. But I know its been done at least 5 times and those are the ones I'm aware of so probably been done more... If your so keen to give it a go... you can setup a top rope by doing full iron horse. But you have to be able to do the start to numba ten to even consider amandla.... Edited October 23, 2008 by eric8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 Soulreaper has done it. Justin Sjong has done it. Michael Orr has done it. Bigwallben has done it. That's 4 that I personally know of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RideT61 Posted October 23, 2008 Author Share Posted October 23, 2008 If your so keen to give it a go... you can setup a top rope by doing full iron horse. But you have to be able to do the start to numba ten to even consider amandla.... LOL, I'm not keen to do it. I can't even do the moves in my dreams. I just think it is a cool looking route and was curious to know if it got climbed often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanb Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 I think Hawk B did it in 2000 or so and estimated it was the 4th ascent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 i recently heard of a variation where you traverse into the arete from iron horse (power horse?). Apparently it skips the 5.13 crux, and keeps things reasonable, you know like 5.12 at index (hahaha). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 Sol, I think Kris might have TRed that variation when I was down there with him last June. It's also to set up a top-rope by climbing Dr. Sniff or p2 of Princely Ambitions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 I think Hawk B did it in 2000 or so and estimated it was the 4th ascent. yes....that's right....hawk did do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 I haven't done it. But I know its been done at least 5 times and those are the ones I'm aware of so probably been done more... If your so keen to give it a go... you can setup a top rope by doing full iron horse. But you have to be able to do the start to numba ten to even consider amandla.... you do not need to climb the .12a full iron horse...from the low sag anchors you can reach over to the anchor... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwallben Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 (edited) Amandla... The ascent chronology to the best of my knowledge. Yeah, Power Horse is a great option at realistic 12c. - Andy DeKlerk - Mike Orr - Justen Sjong - Hawk Berry - Ben Gilkison w/ extension - Sonnie Trotter - Andrew Philbin w/ extension Edited October 25, 2008 by bigwallben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 Michael Orr did it before Justen did. He was the second ascent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanb Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 Ben, What is your opinion on the rating of Amandla without the extension? I seem to recall hawk thinking it was easier then Chronic but very temp dependent? (not that i am going to do either of them any time soon but its nice to dream) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soulreaper Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 (edited) As temperature and relative humidity increase, performance on Amandla decreases. The comparison of the two routes is one of apples and pygmy marmocettes; regardless, my experience with the routes is certainly the opposite to Hawk's. The Amandla requires technical wizardry while Chronic requires requisite power endurance. Each route was certainly a challenge for me. Hawk sometimes has strange adhesive powers over small granite footholds. Edited October 25, 2008 by soulreaper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwallben Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 Thanks Rudy. Yeah, I thought there was Mike Orr in there, but, I wasn't sure. RyanB, regarding ratings...well, it depends on lots of stuff, but in regards to the route at hand, probably the two most important factors are temp's and sequence. I believe that the route received a split grade because it is possible to climb onto Iron Horse just after pulling over the steep bulge. This would effectively give the climber a ticket to rest (almost no hands) for infinity. It never occured to me to climb it this way. The path I followed kept me in a direct line with the arete and the bolts that protect it. However, recently I did Power Horse 12c which links Iron Horse into the arete of Amandla; so, I suppose I could have done Amandla this way. Regarding Chronic, I dunno. I can do that thing like 5 times in a row. I had amandla just as dialed and probably couldn't do it on command. But, those climbs are polar opposite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 Mike was amazing back in the day...i have never seen someone quit a sport so cold turkey... Man, trying to compare an index 13 and a si 13 is pointless...they are almost two different sports. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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