Effa Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 Trip: Joffre Peak - Twisting Couloir Date: 10/18/2008 Trip Report: Drove up to Joffre on Friday night and camped at the Cerise Creek winter lot. Moving the next morning by 0645 and made good time on the trail. The boulder field to the base of the face proved tedious given a nice veneer of frost. There was a variably supportive crust on N-NE aspect below the face with penetration to about boot top. Crossing the bergschrund was pretty straight forward, however, crossing the moat to get established in the couloir is a bit spicier. The couloir is currently a mix of neve and unconsolidated snow while the upper head wall was shin to knee deep. The decent was smooth and Joffre lingered in a pool of sunshine for the entire day though much of the surrounding area was shrouded in cloud. On S/SE aspects there is a reasonably stiff crust up to about 7500ft, and a stiff rain crust down to ~6000ft. The trail is mostly snow free with only the top bit before the hut still covered. All in all a good day though it probably would have been a bit better a few weeks ago before the last snow. Approach Notes: FSR to the summer trail head is decommissioned with all culverts and bridges removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 How did the stuff over left look - Central and Joffre? I heard a rumour Central was all melted out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Effa Posted October 20, 2008 Author Share Posted October 20, 2008 As always its hard to be definitive. The central looked to be in similar conditions with a reasonable amount of snow and neve with a couple mixed steps. Getting into the couloir wouldn't be much of an issue if your climbing with someone, otherwise a couple decent slots. Topping out would probably be the crux as it looked like some what unconsolidated snow over rock. Certainly not a lot of rock showing though. Sorry no photos. Joffre would be in condition too I think (though I didn't look at it as seriously), it would be more difficult to get into though as the schrund towards that end is on the large end of the spectrum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulB Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 The detail in the couloirs isn't great, but here's how they looked on September 14 (click to enlarge) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 WOW, hardly anything in them couloirs, even twisting is mostly melted out a month ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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