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[TR] Leavenworth, Clem's Holler - White Bird, 1p, 5.6 FA 5/14/2008


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Trip: Leavenworth, Clem's Holler - White Bird, 1p, 5.6 FA


Date: 5/14/2008


Climb: Clem's Holler, White Bird, 1p, 5.6 FA


Date of Climb: 5/14/2008


Trip Report:


I had been conscripted to work as hod carrier on a big David_W project. If I wanted to upgrade my station I had better learn to hand drill on lead. So, when on a training day at Clem's Holler the week before, I noticed the slab right of the route we were on, Boardwalk, I thought, "It's a Beautiful Day". It looked like a good candidate. David said, "There's your White Bird..." Sure enough, it was easy enough climbing to find good stances at the required spacing. I think it yielded a good addition to a day's outing for the beginning slab leader. Yes, you have to climb at least 5.9+ to get up to it, but perhaps the stronger leader can do that one.



By CascadeOtto


The second bolt saw the end of my old Forrest Mjolnir hammer. The epoxy gave way and the head flew off, first up the slab a ways, then reversing course past me, in surprise turning to horror, as I saw it bouncing directly down on David and Zack. They actually caught the magic thing! Fearsome no longer, it's another one for the box of memorabilia.


David's trusty A5 hammer was a lot better. Heavier, better balanced, it cut my drilling time in half. Three more bolts for a total of five, past some groovy pockets and horizontal cracks, led me to the Boardwalk bolt anchor. Thanks to David_W and Zack Krupp, photo by David_W

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Well, it's in two pieces now. Also, it wasn't new when I bought it. Before the interweb, there used to be bulletin boards at places like REI and the Swallow's Nest with little pieces of like, paper, where people would try to sell their stuff. I bought the hammer off a guy who said he roofed his house with it. I was poorer then...

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Hey, that was my elementary school, too! I never heard it closed; it always looked in good shape whenever I drove by in later years. Anyway, I think I was a couple years ahead of you. I only remember you from the swim team in summer. Your brother (Keith?) was a couple years ahead of me. I graduated from Shoreline H.S. in '73.


I didn't get into climbing until '79, after college, thankfully, as I may never have earned a degree if I'd discovered climbing earlier! Tried slab climbing early by going to Darrington with Mark_L and hated it - couldn't handle the runouts. Had to let my head mature for a couple of decades, now I'm really digging it. Still like crack climbing, too! Anyway, you write some good tr's, keep it up. And the comments on writing style, too, of course... re: "super fun"

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