sambataro Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Trip: North Early Winter Spire - Flycatcher Route Date: 9/27/2008 Trip Report: Howdy folks, A couple weeks ago I climbed the Flycatcher Buttress on North Early Winter Spire's east face. Despite a cc.com thread about how horrendous this climb was, I convinced my partner Dan to join me on the adventure. And I've never seen an actual cc.com post and I certainly don't feel like I'm giving away a hidden gem. I wouldn't have made the drive for one day of climbing (sister's wedding was on sunday--couldn't miss that), but it was the last route for me to complete all 5 east face routes of the Liberty Group in 2008 and the weather was looking good. It started with Lexington, then Thin Red Line, a weekend of Minuteman and DEB of SEWS, and I wanted to squeeze NEWS in before the major snow came. I won't go as far as giving a personal ranking but my summary is below. Flycatcher Buttress crux pitch: Topo of East Faces (Photo from May 4, 2008 ski touring trip to Kangaroo Ridge, opening weekend of Hwy 20--no or little snow during later ascents) Photo Galleries East Face of Lexington, May 31: The key to offwidths and chimneys: keep moving. Even if just an inch. And if a 2x4 piece of wood presents itself as pro--clip it. Friable rock leads to a good series of corner cracks, traverses under roofs, offwidths and chimneys. Snow on the top kept our attention. Put it on your tick list--its a MUST. 9 pitches, 5.9 Thin Red Line of Liberty Bell, June 11 Brass offset nuts: get a pair and leave the hammer at home. 7 pitches of aid make it a big wall climb. It comes complete with hauling and an overnight bivy. A direct line, thin granite cracks, and a perfect warm-up for the Valley. 12 pitches 5.9 C3 East Face of Minuteman, August 9 Dont let the first 4 pitches get you down--the top two rock. A fun hand crack leads to an exposed 5.8 roof. From the top of Minuteman, you'll see why the East Face of Concord is unclimbed, and will (I dare to say it) remain unclimbed. 6 pitches, 5.10a Direct East Buttress of SEWS, August 10 Here's the classic, most-climbed east face route. Leave the aid gear behind and if it doesn't go free, do it french style. And if the snow blows in and your partner starts rapping down, wait for the sucker hole to convince your partner to climb back up. The 10+ arete felt as hard as the 11a bolt ladder, but hey, some of us forget how to sport climb. 9 pitches, 5.9 A0 Flycatcher Buttress of NEWS, September 27 Never heard of it? My friend Ryan informed me the original ascentionists found a dead bird on route. Its not in the Selected Climbs or the Becky Guide, but I hear its in North Cascades Rock. Sometimes you have to revert to hand drawn topos transmitted via a facsimile for a good adventure. A tricky 5.9 entry pitch leads to a 50 meter low fifth class traverse under an overhanging wall, behind bushes, and between loose blocks. The flycatcher pitch is a hoot, but I'll be honest here, if you're looking for good rock and stellar pitch after pitch, stick with the west face of NEWS or the NW corner. Even the last bit proved to be another wild and spicy east face pitch. Topping out the 45th pitch of the series, luck doesn't even describe it: another great weather window, climbing partner, and expansive view east over the hairpin, Kangaroo Ridge, Wine Spires, and Mazama. 9 pitches, 5.10b Gear Notes: Double rack to 2", singles to 4", single rope OK with standard rappel and descent back to Blue Lake trailhead. Approach Notes: Approach as for DEB of SEWS from the hairpin. The start of the climb is 50 ft down from the end of the gully between SEWS and NEWS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Nice linkup! I was curious, where do you think the C3 was on TRL? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sambataro Posted October 9, 2008 Author Share Posted October 9, 2008 Supposedly the A3 is the second pitch going through the roof before the long corner. That wasn't my lead, but I remember Kyle placing the orange HB offset nut a few times and maybe one hook, but I could see folks maybe calling it C2+... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
webnick2007 Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 Nice work! Good to hear about some exploring up there. Sweet overview photo too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 Jah! Made my day too! I have wondered about that Burdo "Tease" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wbk Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Nice work Joe and hella of a good summer for you overall! Keep it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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