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klar404

[TR] Tupshin, White Goat and Devore - 9/28/2008

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Trip: Tupshin, White Goat and Devore -

 

Date: 9/28/2008

 

Trip Report:

Had a week to kill somewhere. Rock climbing in Idaho or mountains local.Decided to go somewhere we hadn't been before.Loaded up the pigs with six days of food,rock gear,single malt and threw in crampons and ice axes "just to be safe".

Took the lady of the lake from Fields point to Stehekin. Asked around at the docks and some great couple from Wenatche gives us a boat ride to Weaver Point!

 

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The boat ride saved us around three hours of hiking and bus riding.We hiked up devore creek to bird camp then crashed after fighting off snaffles for a hour.You see, we had created a golden rule for this trip. No more than 5 miles or three thousand feet of elevation with the packs we were carrying.Time spent at camp.Enjoying ourselves.

 

Day 2

 

Got up and hiked up the ridge towards Tupshin.

 

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Dropped our packs at the ridge and cruised up Tupshin's south side. It was a right trending ramp then two pitches of fourth and low fifth to the summit area. We climbed right past all the five fixed rappels. It was fun to read Blakes ascent of the East ridge. Rapped off(with one rope) and started looking for water in the bony basin below.

 

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Day 3

Descended slightly into Bird Brain Basin and decided to go up the waterfall that Becky says is where you "gain the forest"

 

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Walked up to the lakes through ever increasing larch action and ditched the pigs.

 

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We then rambled through some of the nicest meadows I've seen toward White Goat.

 

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Climbed the SE corner in two short pitches because of rope drag. It goes at around 5.5.Has a fixed pin that is old as hell. Some great rock and some death flakes.Summit ridge and views of Tupshin were crazy!

 

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Register had dates from 1940,1941,1974,1987,2002. We assumed that we were in the top fifteen to climb it. We rapped off a nice station with ancient webing.It's 40 meters to the ground. We had two 8mm 37 meter (don't ask) ropes and made it with rope strech.Plenty of nicer rock on this crag but gear would be problematic.

 

day 4

 

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Woke up and decided to climb Devore. This route was great but a little tedious with the moraine and talus.Better with more snow.

 

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You gain the ridge at the col 7500, then stay left all the way up except at the first towers. At the towers there was a ice patch but we skirted it below then got back on the ridge above it. I actually used my ice axe in the dirt when off route. Which was the only time we used it.It and the spikes were dead weight. oh, well.

Once above the towers you enter a gully and climb up to a fourth class step. I used a rope for no apparent reason since there was no gear where you needed it. go left around a VERY exposed corner and drop down onto a sidewalk ledge. This takes you to another gully that is shaped like a Y. Drop down then go up the other branch.

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We rapped off a horn near the summit to avoid some 4thish downclimbing also rapped the lower step.One rope would work.

 

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Looking at the weather and having climbed what we wanted made us decide to bail a day early. We rapped twice down the waterfall to get into Bird Basin. Others might but there is no way I'd down climb that thing with a heavy pack. It took us a quick hour and a half to get to bird creek camp by Devore creek. It was getting dark when we rolled in.

 

Day Five

 

Walked out to catch the bus at Harlequin bridge.Spotted many salmon,pretty colors and dumb birds.

 

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Caught the bus and stopped at the world famous bakery. Don't let the bus driver know that you like rhubarb!

 

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Got on the boat and got to Fields Point just as it started to rain.This was one of the most relaxing,beautiful and satisfying trips I've ever taken.We had zero time restraints other than getting home at the end of the week. That, good company and a little single malt thrown in made for a great five days.

more pics in my gallery or here

 

Gear Notes:

light rack,twin 8mm 40 meter ropes

axe and spixes were dead weight

 

Approach Notes:

planes,trains and automobiles

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Wow, awfully purty country! Nothing like golden trees (and a little photo-shop?) to make the sky look even bluer. Very nice.

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really cool, i didnt realize those areas and summits were so infrequented

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