G-spotter Posted October 1, 2008 Share Posted October 1, 2008 Craig McGee and partners freed the aid on this route but did not continue to the top (see AAJ). Craig said it should be renamed the "Pillar of Poo" due to the dirty cracks. Well the cracks might be cleaner now, but there could be some loose rock too This came down sometime between when I flew by there with Scurlock in January, and mid-August. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted October 1, 2008 Share Posted October 1, 2008 Saw that when I tried the East Ridge..... its pretty big! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamsbud Posted October 1, 2008 Share Posted October 1, 2008 Yeah Marc when are we going to go and try this pillar of pie? Or the east ridge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted October 2, 2008 Share Posted October 2, 2008 Nice photo Drew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 Yeah Marc when are we going to go and try this pillar of pie? Or the east ridge? Ill do the east ridge. But Im gonna want to simul climb or solo it all b/c last time I was on it pitching it out seemed super retarded and frustrating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clintcummins Posted October 4, 2008 Share Posted October 4, 2008 Drew, I thought the Pillar of Pi was the next buttress to the right, directly under the pi shaped blocks? Am I mistaken? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted October 4, 2008 Share Posted October 4, 2008 Drew, I thought the Pillar of Pi was the next buttress to the right, directly under the pi shaped blocks? Am I mistaken? Yes, you would be mistaken. The Pillar of Pi is the huge buttress with the rockfall scar in the photo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted October 5, 2008 Author Share Posted October 5, 2008 The buttress that appears under the Pi in the photo is actually the East Ridge. The Pillar of Pi is the one with the brand new scar which is actually on or very near p~9-10 of the climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clintcummins Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Thanks, guys. When I read the guidebook description, I guess I was relying too heavily on the final part which said "The route ends close to the Pillar of Pi" (although I guess that's self-referential?). Going deeper up that gully did not look like fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted October 10, 2008 Author Share Posted October 10, 2008 (edited) "Close" in this case means about 200m away from, but on the upper East Ridge while the Pi Pillar itself is on the North Ridge. Going further up the gully is apparently real good fun under winter conditions, it is so good it is credited with two separate first ascents, one by Serl et al in 81? in the Fairley guide and one by de Jong et al 86 in the Beckey guide - same route though, Rexford SE Couloir Edited October 10, 2008 by G-spotter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 that couloir sure looked good when I was there! except all the ice chunks coming down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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