[TR] Ben Nevis - CarnMorDeargArete 9/23/2008

[bradleym]

Trip: Ben Nevis - CarnMorDeargArete

 

Date: 9/23/2008

 

Trip Report:

Climbed the UK's highest peak, via a route that relatively few people take, called the Carn Mor Dearg Arete, a knife-edged ridge connecting the Carn Mor Dearg to Ben Nevis. The weather was fine, a little cloudy and foggy. The views in all directions were spectacular.

 

The route consisted mainly of slogging up trails, then bushwhacking through heather and moss, then scrambling over scree slopes and boulder fields. it was about 19k, and 1300 meters ascent and descent.

 

Here are a couple of photos from the trip. A much longer account may be found here: Ben Nevis Climb

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

compassmapgpstrekkingpoles

 

Approach Notes:

northfacecarpark

[Stefan]

interesting photos in your collection. I have never been there. Pretty nice.

 

I have never seen abseil posts before. that was interesting.

[klenke]

Nice. This one brings back memories, for I did the same route myself back in May 1997.

 

Some highlights/comments:

1. Like you, I encountered the bog at the north base of Carn More Dearg. I even managed to get my boot stuck in mud up to my shin for one step. It took me a good 15 seconds to get it out, my foot nearly coming out of the boot as I jerked. It made the rest of the climb kind of a sloshy-muddy affair for the inside of that boot.

 

2. Like you, I didn't see too many people on the traverse (maybe half a dozen).

 

3. I didn't see the abseil points. Maybe they're new since 1997.

 

4. After having not seen many folks on the traverse I was astounded when I got to the plateau top and encountered literally 100-200 people up there. I tell all I know that are capable, if they plan on climbing Ben Nevis, they should do the loop around Carn Mor Dearg. You get to see the great E. Face of Ben Nevis and you avoid the people-choked slog up the wide path of the punter route. That said, the Carn Mor Dearg route is 5,000 ft of elevation gain.

 

5. It's funny, as you say, it would be hard to get lost on the way down the punter route. But it seems a lot people get lost anyway. Aiblins they take a spur trail in the fog then get lost when they try to cut across open ground to pick up the trail they should have stayed on, but never find it.

 

6. I had haggis in town that evening. I always wanted to have it and that's where I had it. I'd rate it so-so.

 

The East Face from Carn Mor Dearg:

 

Edited September 25, 2008 by klenke

[bradleym]

Nice. This one brings back memories, for I did the same route myself back in May 1997.

 

Some highlights/comments:

1. Like you, I encountered the bog at the north base of Carn More Dearg. I even managed to get my boot stuck in mud up to my shin for one step. It took me a good 15 seconds to get it out, my foot nearly coming out of the boot as I jerked. It made the rest of the climb kind of a sloshy-muddy affair for the inside of that boot.

 

2. Like you, I didn't see too many people on the traverse (maybe half a dozen).

 

3. I didn't see the abseil points. Maybe they're new since 1997.

 

4. After having not seen many folks on the traverse I was astounded when I got to the plateau top and encountered literally 100-200 people up there. I tell all I know that are capable, if they plan on climbing Ben Nevis, they should do the loop around Carn Mor Dearg. You get to see the great E. Face of Ben Nevis and you avoid the people-choked slog up the wide path of the punter route. That said, the Carn Mor Dearg route is 5,000 ft of elevation gain.

 

5. It's funny, as you say, it would be hard to get lost on the way down the punter route. But it seems a lot people get lost anyway. Aiblins they take a spur trail in the fog then get lost when they try to cut across open ground to pick up the trail they should have stayed on, but never find it.

 

6. I had haggis in town that evening. I always wanted to have it and that's where I had it. I'd rate it so-so.

 

The East Face from Carn Mor Dearg:

 

I was wondering what it would be like to go earlier in the year. Even in september there was quite a lot of water coming down. I found that staying on top of the heather was the way to go to avoid bog. the heather springs right back, as though you hadn't stepped on it, and it provides a firm foothold above the muck.

 

It was quite crowded (maybe 50-60 people) when i reached the summit, but it appeared that only I and my comrade had done the arete loop. As I descended the standard route, I thanked my lucky stars I had taken a different route up. The standard route is a boring scramble up rocky switchbacks, through slag and scree, and it is as crowded as the Mt. Hood south route in May. Lots of wankers too. So I agree, definitely use that one only to bail, but not as your way up. Once you reach the lochan and head back into the glen under the main face of Ben Nevis, you leave the crowds behind.

 

We stayed four nights in the Clachaig Inn in Glencoe, and I highly recommend it. Its about fifteen miles away, but it is a 'climbers' and walkers hotel, two stars, with great food and bars and a huge breakfast each morning. Get the 'Whole Hog' breakfast. Sausage, beans, tomato, bacon, black pudding, mushrooms and, of course, haggis...