Bug Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 Just sit hard on a ch and bear down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crackers Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 Two weeks ago...more this weekend if we can manage: Â Â That's my wife. Â That's her climbing only 6 months after her ankle distraction. It was our first time climbing together in four years and change. It made me SUPER happy! Â The walk out from East ship to the top of the path was the crux. It took us about an hour and a half. She was done! But we're planning on heading back... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted October 21, 2008 Author Share Posted October 21, 2008 don't click the link on Crackers post! don't click the link ! don't click that link ! Â Â Â Glad she's doing so well. Lots of stainless and stiches. Sick pic if ya click the link. Glad you got some rays in before the long winter rain comes. Â Is that Lions Jaw...Kunza Corner...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 SO how hard is Riverside? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 SO how hard is Riverside? the bluebook value is 10b - never climbed in the valley, but at beacon that's plenty hard - much harder than windsurfer i thought, which is the same rating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 windsurfer is 10a. that's my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 windsurfer is 10a. that's my opinion. word - no harder than blownout firsure - you done riverside, cc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 Ivan. Do you "free" blownout and windsurfer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 Ivan. Do you "free" blownout and windsurfer? yes  why the quotation marks, 8-ball? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 Because you use your "fee fee" hook quite a bit. Â Windsurfer is hard. Blownout is 5.10 in my book. I think free for some easier to lead than blownout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 ivan - I have not done riverside - looks interesting for sure. Â Windsurfer has big breaks like every 20 feet, it's like 3 climbs. Blownout has few breaks. Â I'm sure free for some can seem easy when you climb it a million times and have that digit move dialed in, but I think it's an intimidating lead as you can get hurt if you blow it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 Ironically enough I have never felt like I could lead windsurfer clean. I have never fallin on top rope but barley get it….I have led free for some at least a dozen times and pipeline 3 or 4 times. Windsurfer just does not call me…….. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 Riverside looks fun. Is it one of those climbs high up on the SW? Â As I remember FFS is a one move kinda route, Pipeline is a bit more sustained and offbalance and pro was harder to place, Blownout was straightforward jamming. All in all it would be hard to compare them to each other. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 i had a feeling that was the route. nice anchor. you must have had great confidence in your second. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 oddly, that anchor inspired me plenty - 4 big ass chickenheads, plus i was in a stance where i could hold all the weight on my body pretty easy - plus, geoff never falls!  you'll notice, kev, i rarely claim to "free" anything - i like having fun when climbing, and given my strength and technique, that requires resting pretty often  it boggles me mind that you find free firsum easier to lead then blownout  PP, yeah, riverside's way up there on the edge of grassy ledge and you'll never have to wait in line! the anchor's not too bad currently either and will get replaced soon enough i bet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mythosgrl Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 2 weeks ago   Last weekend in Boulder Canyon. Can't beat 75 degree October days!  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 Ironically enough I have never felt like I could lead windsurfer clean. I have never fallin on top rope but barley get it….I have led free for some at least a dozen times and pipeline 3 or 4 times. Windsurfer just does not call me…….. I guess I'd better get back on Free for Some if it is easier than Windsurfer. I think I got on FFS one time the first summer I started climbing again in 2006 and did not fair well. Still trying to lead Blownout but don't think it will happen this year. Hopefully next summer though. I've heard from quite a few folks that Windsurfer is the easiest 10b at Beacon. Blownout could well be the hardest 10a, the crux at the top feels much more like 10c/d to me, but what the hell do I know? I'm just a wanna-be-posin-sorta-has-been... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 just kidding. girth-hitched chickenheads make great pro, and the chickenheads on outer space are unbelievable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underworld Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 bump! Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 is that renton? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted October 28, 2008 Author Share Posted October 28, 2008 flatirons (Boulder) from the other side isn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_t Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 Huston crack (old school 5.8+ OW) on the left, base of Cob Rock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wimsey Posted November 14, 2008 Share Posted November 14, 2008 Â Glad she's doing so well. Lots of stainless and stiches. Sick pic if ya click the link. Glad you got some rays in before the long winter rain comes. Â Is that Lions Jaw...Kunza Corner...? Â Pack animal direct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted November 14, 2008 Share Posted November 14, 2008 I'd post a pic but I get this. "Sorry, you don't have permission to upload photos."  who'd i piss off now?? I can't upload pics? Good thing cuz i wuz gonna post my middle finger... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted November 14, 2008 Share Posted November 14, 2008 What *are* you talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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