billcoe Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 I'd post a pic but I get this. "Sorry, you don't have permission to upload photos." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 22, 2008 Author Share Posted September 22, 2008 Nice Ivan! I hear your portaledge had issues? !! My solo Saturday. Virgin pinnacles. Main wall. Looking up. Moi. 3 hours and 8 holes or so later and the Lil Dawg gets a well deserved rest. ( Raindawg!) Some down time relaxing to end the day. Still love the smell of cordite. this got groups OK but I was low, too embarrassed to show the holes my Wilson Combat put into the paper. You;d think when you spend that kind of money on a .45..... Sunday I went out solo and ran into Larry, Kenny and Jake at the Far Side. Knocked off some rocks and then we all got wet. Headed to Jim's for a beer and good companionship. Hadn't seen Jim for weeks and realized I'd been missing him. Jim put on the Patrick Edlinger movie where he free solos some 10c. Well done film. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 bill, stewart and i must have just missed you on sunday, as we left after being rained out. didn't see anyone else there. sounds like saturday was fun for you at your new wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewart Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Hey Bill, nice pics! Where's that wall at, I'd love to check it out? You can PM me if you don't want everyone to know. stewart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewart Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Sorry I don't have any pics, but maybe Markd can put some up of our weekend at cougar. Stewart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewart Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 A pic of where we were climbing near this weekend. This is the 3rd GFFA of "je'mapel Jon Phillip" in June. I gave my other ground up aid climb a try but was shut down for another try later. You can see it in the background. Its the corner. 1st time on "je' mapel" I had to climb 15ft above my piton on loose rock before I realized there was no gear, so I lowered off my equalized lowball and piton. Second time I put a bolt in on lead and then was shut down by blackberries, loose rock and then exhaustion. The 3rd time glen, with no helmet, got the rain of softball size boulders and then I made it to the ledge and put in an anchor. All ground up, which I like. The problem is that you leave the line open. And my greedy ego climber mentality can't handle leaving climbs undone so I have nightmares and sleepless nights dreaming of freeing the climb. But those are fun too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 nice work. is this the 2nd ascent? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 A pic of where we were climbing near this weekend. This is the 3rd GFFA of "je'mapel Jon Phillip" in June. I gave my other ground up aid climb a try but was shut down for another try later. You can see it in the background. Its the corner. 1st time on "je' mapel" I had to climb 15ft above my piton on loose rock before I realized there was no gear, so I lowered off my equalized lowball and piton. Second time I put a bolt in on lead and then was shut down by blackberries, loose rock and then exhaustion. The 3rd time glen, with no helmet, got the rain of softball size boulders and then I made it to the ledge and put in an anchor. All ground up, which I like. The problem is that you leave the line open. And my greedy ego climber mentality can't handle leaving climbs undone so I have nightmares and sleepless nights dreaming of freeing the climb. But those are fun too. Is that "Stewarts Ladder"? The Corner at the far side, that has all the gear in it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 25, 2008 Author Share Posted September 25, 2008 It is Bryan, the route right above Kenny(?) in yellow shirt, but Jon hasn't yet heard that you finally free'd it back in June and named it after him. He called it open book btw, I found out his original name for it like 2 weeks ago. __________________________________________________________________ bill, stewart and i must have just missed you on sunday, as we left after being rained out. didn't see anyone else there. sounds like saturday was fun for you at your new wall. Next time then! Saturday was awesome. Damn that shit just scares the hell out of me. Touching the ground is always a joyful reunion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevino Posted September 25, 2008 Share Posted September 25, 2008 Sol stop teasing me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewart Posted September 26, 2008 Share Posted September 26, 2008 It is Bryan, the route right above Kenny(?) in yellow shirt, but Jon hasn't yet heard that you finally free'd it back in June and named it after him. He called it open book btw, I found out like 2 weeks ago. __________________________________________________________________ That's cool that you free'd it, I don't know you and its a good looking line. But please don't call it "stewart's ladder" it sounds like I'm too weak to climb it or something. I figured it went at about 10dish. What did you think? Bill, just so I know and since your writing all the rule's down for that wall; What reserve's a line out there amoungst belay partner's. Say you do a route ground up in the snow and rain and I belay you on it. Then you begin to "project", how much time do I have before I can go and lead it with another friend. And then how much time do I have to let you know that we did it, so that you don't have anxiety about freeing the climb? Just curious for future climbing! Stewart Here's where I was climbing the weekend before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 26, 2008 Author Share Posted September 26, 2008 That's cool that you free'd it, I don't know you and its a good looking line. But please don't call it "stewart's ladder" it sounds like I'm too weak to climb it or something. I figured it went at about 10dish. What did you think? Bill, just so I know and since your writing all the rule's down for that wall; What reserve's a line out there amoungst belay partner's. Say you do a route ground up in the snow and rain and I belay you on it. Then you begin to "project", how much time do I have before I can go and lead it with another friend. And then how much time do I have to let you know that we did it, so that you don't have anxiety about freeing the climb? Just curious for future climbing! Stewart I had heard you to say you were letting others try to free that route. You didn't say it about the other lines you had there, so they were of course left alone. If I'd known you'd felt otherwise there's no way we would have jumped on it. You weren't around for @ 3 months or so, and as I'm pretty sure I heard you say anyone want it have at it..... ...if you want the name to be Bill's Ladder or Bryans ladder I don't care and shouldn't be an issue with Bryan either he's a good dude, it shouldn't be something you feel bad on or upset about, we didn't know the name at that time and Bryan wanted to honor you. I'm not into stealing your projects if that's what you think, thought it was clear. If you think we did something bad I apologize, this is on me, not Bryan. If there is anything else you have reserved let me know and I'll stay off it forever or until you say otherwise. Bryan thought 10c, I thought 11a. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewart Posted September 27, 2008 Share Posted September 27, 2008 I think its great that someone free'd it. I don't reserve ground up climbs, just thought a belay partner gives respect and at least lets the climber know when its been free'd. I know I've called you several times to tell you that I free'd one of your new route's. I hold great value in my climbs. Maybe to you it didn't mean anything, just another day of climbing. I would think of it as an exciting event to free an aid climb. Even if it was just 10d. and only 30ft tall. Just throw me a line yo. As for my future climbing, ground-up bitches! "Je'mapeljonphillip" "Open door" is a retarded one-eyed drunken shamen indian from the midwest. His original name was "loud noise" because of his ability to fart at will. He later became the respected shamen of one of the badest ass tribes of indians to ever fight the white man in the Ohio River and Detroit area. His brother Tecumsah was their chief. He was the bad-ass leader and was, of course, betrayed by the "french" while fighting the English. After that "open door" became "loud noise", the drunken retarted shamen, once again. I don't care what you call it, it will always be "loud noise" and the "Drop-Zone" to me. Bill, I am very grateful for every FA made available to me and hold them in very high regard. You have to admit that this is an akward way to find out about a climb that you hold in high regards. Stewart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted September 27, 2008 Share Posted September 27, 2008 Can we all be friends now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 29, 2008 Share Posted September 29, 2008 top of takes fist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 29, 2008 Author Share Posted September 29, 2008 Can we all be friends now? Although it doesn't sound like it up there, I sure hope so. _____________________________________________________________________ You led it and trailed a line?! Woot! You rule! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 29, 2008 Share Posted September 29, 2008 You led it and trailed a line?! how else was i gonna tag up me smokes?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 29, 2008 Author Share Posted September 29, 2008 how else was i gonna tag up me smokes?!? Old skool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderhound Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted October 13, 2008 Author Share Posted October 13, 2008 Looks like a high mileage route Bryan! I can hardly see you up there. What route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRep Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 The Gash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CollinWoods Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 What does "Je'mapeljonphillip" mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 my name is jon phillip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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