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Posted (edited)
What does "Je'mapel jon phillip" mean?

 

keep the slurs in spray please - ow

 

No. Ivan had it right. The time I spend it France finally helps with something - Je'mapel jon phillip is french for "My name is Jon Phillip".

Edited by Off_White
Posted
damn john- nice! why do you think your toe froze?

 

With many years experience outside, I say speak with authority and certainty that the toe got too cold. You're welcome. ;)

 

__________________________________________________________________

says:

 

......"My friend and I gave the grand central couloir on Kitchener a go over the weekend... made awesome time on route until I took a 40' fall... in the fall I broke my ice clippers (little plastic ice screw holders) so all our ice screws went bouncing down the mountain so we had to bail. Bust! The GCC has only been climbed twice this year but only by sponsored pro climbers... we would have been the first "common folk climbers" of the year... not to suggest it hasnt been climbed by common folk in other years... it just doesnt get a lot of traffic. I guess all the training is starting to help!

 

"The bad news is I totally frost bite my big toe on my right foot. Gonna have to take some time off from the rock gym and also modify my gym workouts to upper body only until the toe can bear weight again. If you think of any good upper body only workouts dont hesitate to send them my way... perhaps this injury will be the key to me getting a one arm pull up! Who knows!"

 

- John"

FRIEH2.gif

 

post-whip.gif

 

toe.gif

 

That 2nd pic looks like a f'ed up place to fall. :noway: Good to see you still smiling. Bryans crampon marks in the shoulder heal up yet? :lmao:

Posted
damn john- nice! why do you think your toe froze?

 

What Bill said :laf:

 

Dont know... I've climbed in the same boots I was using in those temps before so it was a surprise to me. I felt my feet go numb once on route but I also felt them come back so I'm kinda stumped by the whole thing... my best guess is maybe because we were out in it for so long (left the tent @ 2:55 am).

 

Bryan didnt get hit though I did come eye to eye with him... minus a few scrapes I'm fine. I'm just really dissappointed I blew our summit... we were where we needed to be to top out that day... losing the screws in the fall canceled that though. Now I have to do that damn approach again :mistat:

Posted

It could be something as simple as your sock bunching up a bit on the toe. Be careful though, let it heal fully before you jump on it again or you may find the feeling gone permanently in that spot. It will most likely be more susceptible to frost bite again as well. It may be blacker than you think once some time has passed.

 

My big bro once radically frostbit his big toe, the whole thing: maybe ice climbing, maybe xc skiing - but the Docs wanted to amputate the whole thing, and he wouldn't let them. They threatened that he would die from gangrene, but he was pretty confident. It took a while for it to come back, and it was swollen double sized and dark black, but he still has it.

Posted

ah, an overdue pic from 2 weekends ago - a somewhat unorthodox, not quite-ready for john long chickenhead anchor just below snow creek wall's top

dl2.jpg

Posted
ah, an overdue pic from 2 weekends ago - a somewhat unorthodox, not quite-ready for john long chickenhead anchor just below snow creek wall's top

dl2.jpg

Yah a 60m doesn't quite make it!

Posted
ah, an overdue pic from 2 weekends ago - a somewhat unorthodox, not quite-ready for john long chickenhead anchor just below snow creek wall's top

dl2.jpg

 

as noted in another thread, there is more than sufficient evidence of brain damage among climbers in the postings found on this website...

Posted
ah, an overdue pic from 2 weekends ago - a somewhat unorthodox, not quite-ready for john long chickenhead anchor just below snow creek wall's top

dl2.jpg

 

as noted in another thread, there is more than sufficient evidence of brain damage among climbers in the postings found on this website...

hey! but i did use a LOCKING biner for my first clove hitch, right?

 

doesn't look like i locked it though :)

Posted

Yes, I remember well.... The party below us talked about not being able to summit from the ledge. Ivan says he remembers being able to make it.

 

Well, off he went. It wasn't clear he was at a belay but he was out of rope. Then, as I approach, he says "You're gonna kill me when you see this anchor." Not what you want to hear 800 feet off the deck. I tried not to look and climbed on past.

 

Honestly, the walk down was much worse.

 

Posted

ye standarde outer space

 

the smallish ledge just below this place wasn't half as pimp'n though - it'd be best just to have a 70 m rope so you can finish off - simulclimbing would be fine too if you don't do the hard start to the last pitch

Posted
Not what you want to hear 800 feet off the deck. I tried not to look and climbed on past.....

 

Love the pics! (Got more Zod pics underworld?)

 

Hey- :lmao: Except for Ivan's massive weight, please tell me there was there a solid upwards piece?!

 

:wave:

Posted
Not what you want to hear 800 feet off the deck. I tried not to look and climbed on past.....

 

Love the pics! (Got more Zod pics underworld?)

 

Hey- :lmao: Except for Ivan's massive weight, please tell me there was there a solid upwards piece?!

 

:wave:

no, but w/ 10 feet of 40 degree slab to climb to the top, if he had fallen, we both pretty much would have deserved death :)

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