Jump to content

ice tool recommendations


tokyobob

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 24
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The reactor is a great ice tool. As for a first leashless tool, you could not find a better one. It is great on lower angle to vertical ice but not too great on overhanging ice because of the angle. It also feels very solid on mixed, more so than the vipers or cobras. having a leashless tool like the reactor would make learning to lead soooo much easier than a leashed tool because you don't have to fumble with the leash.

I hope this helps!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm a Grivel fan myself...after I got sick of trying to lead WI with my Chalet Quasar tools, I picked up the X-Monsters and love them for their narrow shaft profile, inexpensive price tag, durability...if you're climbing hard routes eventually you need 4 tools anyway if you break a pick. The X-Monsters are the cheap way to get that done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Look in the yard sale and buy ChadA's quark ergos for 225 bucks plus an extra pick. Best deal in town right now in my opinion, and I would be all over it if I really needed a 3rd set of tools for the two days of ice climbing I do a year...

 

What he said. The Quark Ergo's are great tools :tup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You just really have to try all the tools out. I have the Quarks and Nomics. I tried my tools against a friend's new BD Vipers and I just couldn't get a good stick at first with them... it just felt like it took a completely different swing/technique to get first sticks like I did with my Quarks. He, of course, had no issues with his Vipers.

 

Can't really go wrong with a Petzl or BD tool. They both make quality tools and once you get used to one just stick with it and have better peace of mind on the climb. Ice climbing is, afterall, very much about gear and your comfort/familiarity with it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I heard that rumor last spring but the fact that they dont have them up on their site now makes me think it wont be this year... if they dont have them up by Oct I bet not...

 

silver viper = old model

bronze viper = new model

 

I also dont think they had anything special at any of the trade shows. Except maybe an upper rest thingy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've heard mixed reviews of Reactors. Tvashtarkatena has/had a pair. I've tried them just once and didn't like.

 

If between Quark and *older* Viper for same price, I'd go Quark hands down. I have Quarks and new cobras now.

 

 

Agreed. I bought the Reactors cheap to get into the game quick, but unloaded them pretty quickly once I tried Jens' Quarks, which I subsequently purchased and still think are the shit. The harder, more brittle, and 'bulgy' the ice, the more you'll appreciate the Quarks. I tried Alex's new cobra drytooling, and it was pretty groovy, too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To hijack the thread again - does anyone have an opinion of Cobras Vs Vipers? Almost identical geometry makes me wonder if I NEED a carbon fiber pair. I have heard the increased weight of the Vipers makes them more strenuous to swing for smaller people, but I'm wondering if the dampening in the carbon fiber is worth the extra $$.

 

Ideas?

 

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Only a 1-2 oz difference. I wouldn't worry about weight, or if you are, why not go really light with some Aztars.

 

The cost/benefit all comes down to how much you climb. If you're going to get out a bunch, you'll enjoy the better tool. If you only going on a few trips a season, you'll probably not notice the difference.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, I have a gear problem but I'm going to meetings to try and address it.

Ice tools? I have Nomics, Reactors, Vipers and Trangos and have extensivly used the new Cobra carbon fibres.

I lead WI5 and mixed to M7.

Nomics - fantastic tools for sport mixed (you can't bang in a pin as there is no hammer so no trad mixed) on ice change the pick to a cascade pick and you have a great tool.

Reactors - I found they had a habit of bouncing on hard ice, I found that a swing on a sligth diagonal angle worked better. This was fixed in part when I changed the hammers (yes both hammers) to the standard hammer rather than the micro hammer, it gave them better balance and just really helped. One problem I found is that when you swap hands and grip them higher the point of balance changes and it has sent me flying off some stuff that I could easily do with the nomics.

Vipers - changed the hammers, I fit a standard adxe when alpine climbing and change to the heavier picks, I use them mostly leasless but they do go well with the leashes depending on the route. Great all round cheap tool but you have to go to the heavy hammers to make them really nice. Changing to higher grip point seems ok.

Cobras - Mixed climbed with them in the Rockies last year, again big hammers, great balance, great everything, really liked them but if I bought a pair I think my wife would leave me. Changing grip seems ok, they might be a similar weight but they are a very different tool to the Viper.

So if I was starting again I would buy Cobras for a great all round leasless, leashed and alpine everything in one tool.

If the budget is the issue then the Vipers are a easy choice.

For the pure joy of climbing steep ice Nomics with cascade picks, for pure hard sport mixed routes Nomics with Astro picks.

I hope that helps some

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had the chance to use DMM Rebels this Saturday. They were seriously nice tool, and light compared to the old-style Cobras I was swinging. The swing was rigid and damp, and the grip felt positive. The sticks were easy and solid. The pick's geometry was similar to a quarks; you could hook all day with them no problem. I would consider them if I was in the market for a new tool. My only concern would be the lack of availability of replacement picks. Compared to Petzl, Grivel, and especially BD, DMM picks are less well-stocked in your run-of-the-mill climbing shop.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had the chance to use DMM Rebels this Saturday. They were seriously nice tool, and light compared to the old-style Cobras I was swinging. The swing was rigid and damp, and the grip felt positive. The sticks were easy and solid. The pick's geometry was similar to a quarks; you could hook all day with them no problem. I would consider them if I was in the market for a new tool. My only concern would be the lack of availability of replacement picks. Compared to Petzl, Grivel, and especially BD, DMM picks are less well-stocked in your run-of-the-mill climbing shop.

[/quot

 

I own these (DMM Rebs)

The picks are not that hard to find online. Bent Gate/ AMH.

the B rated picks (only type made at this point) bend easily (after 1 day of mixed) and they are a bitch to replace with wrenches, etc.. (not field friendly)

 

Otherwise, they swing beautifully. Not for total leashlessness, IMHO, as the pinky/hand rest is short

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...