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Weapons of Moss Destruction


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A route is only as good as the climber putting it up, take your time
I agree with this part...

 

...and make it safe...
I decidely don't agree with this part, however.

 

AS Bill would say here's your sign :rolleyes: or as Carlos would say dee da dee :poke: :lmao:over 2000 posts after 8/04 :laf:

LUCKY :wave::brew:

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- ice axe, when there is a lot of dirt in the cracks or hummocks

- wire brush. For lichen, turn the brush over and scrape with the wood side; then the wire bristles will not fall off so fast

- keyhole saw (blade like a thick hacksaw) - good for cleaning out thin cracks (the handle makes it easier on your wrist/knuckles)

 

Choose carefully - some climbs won't stay clean, especially if there is a source of dirt from above.

For example, some routes at Index have been "reclaimed" by the jungle.

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- Choose carefully - some climbs won't stay clean, especially if there is a source of dirt from above.

For example, some routes at Index have been "reclaimed" by the jungle.

Amen clint.

Sadly, to many routes in WA and SW B.C. are pushed up watercourses or seasonal drainages and aren't worth the effort as it is a losing battle. In my book, if it requires more than two full days of moss cleaning to clean a single pitch it will be a futile effort over the long run. just my two cents. (I've been guilty myself though.)

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Not all wirebrushes are created equal.

 

One of the wooden jobs with the bristles wedged in holes drilled in the wood, and a scraper on the back, will last for about 20m of scrubbing in Squamish or 15m in the Valley where the crags are mossier. The bristles progressively come out at the tip and work backwards from there so halfway through the lifespan of the brush you have to hacksaw off the de-bristled end and chuck it

 

On the other hand there are these excellent wirebrushes you can find at a few professional carpenter/contractor stores, (not your joe average weekend warrior/homeowner stores) that have a plastic grip and a metal bar with the bristles crimped in. The bristles DO NOT COME OUT of these ones. They do gradually get worn down but you can get 10 pitches or more out of a single brush. Kris Wild famously cleaned the whole of Millenium Falcon with just one of these "magic brushes". Hell ya!

 

I found a store that sells them and bought four... so far I've destroyed one and have three left.

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BTW The pros in Squamish use a power washer for crag cleaning nowadays as evidenced by Chuck Chuck or some of JH's new routes around Murrin. Carry some empty barrels up to the top of the crag, let rain fill them up and there's your water source.

 

Powdered zinc and bleach applications are also good methods of preventing cleaned pitches, but especially boulder problems from growing back over the wet/unclimbable winter months.

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