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first ascent [TR] Sloan Pk.-(FA)-SE Ridge - 9/7/2008

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Trip: Sloan Pk.-(FA)-SE Ridge - Probable FA of the SE Ridge of Sloan Peak


Date: 9/7/2008


Trip Report:

It was time to follow up on a few lines that I have schemed on in the past. 12 years ago I saw a super steep ridge directly above the Corkscrew route where it exits the glacier.


It is the cliff on the right skyline. The Corkscrew (CS) Route is the grassy ramp below.

Jared and I mounted a spirited attempt the Labor Day weekend before, only to get snowed out half way up the Bedal Creek approach.

With renewed vigor and yet still more clouds, Lane an I went after it this weekend. All clear pictures were taken late Saturday or summit day, Sunday. Seems the west side sogginess was to prevail.

With newly soaked shoes, we dispatched the approach . Up high, the clouds began their dramatic uplift.



Lane and the "Snowpatch Spire of Washington"


Monte Cristo Backdrop



We then settle into an amazing bivy light show-yet again


I am a lucky photographer lately

I know I drove Lane nuts with taking a 100+ photos of him.

A cold night led to the same in the am. At 8 am we got after the snow-crossing and the lower ramp and got above and into position to do the obvious Dihedral that caps into a big , crackless roof.


Route goes up the Black Blocks(pitch 1, 5.2) on left and into the thin cracks on right of dihedral.


Lane following 5.7 , pitch 2


I then traversed right onto the crazy-angled East Face! On to a fist crack, and then into the steep thin face section that also served as the crux. Pitch 3, 5.10a, Reachy,

"Reach for the Nickel Pitch"




Scary, steep and committing!


After a crazy mantel left, I sent the final mossy, wet, yet fun dihedral finish. Pitch 4 , 5.10a.



We were then stoked to be at the top of the steep part of the lower buttress. What is amazingly fun about Sloan is the upper bench to the left , lets you "Shop" for your finish. I have done 2 lines now on the SE Face and they have both been 4 stars!



Pitch 5, contrived, yet 5.9+


Our route takes the lower left dihedral and goes right and straight up from there


> Sloan is a blessed and cursed peak. It is blessed with great granite in places,and soaring walls. It is also cursed with huge ledges and western dampness and weather. I have had several great trips there, and it will be the sight of many awesome routes in the future!



Cheers to your future with the highly-accessible -Sloan Peak




Gear Notes:

Cam to 3, several bugaboos

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Some great shots there Wayne! That is a damn cool mountain. The SW face (last picture?) is wicked for sure.

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Some *great* pics there Wayne! Yeah that SW Face is just begging for some exploration

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