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[TR] Distal Phalanx - North Arete (FA) 9/6/2008

John Frieh

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I don't know if I agree with John's comparison to Bear's approach. Though they are both bad, I thought this was worse by far. Perhaps my lack of sleep put me in a cranky mood, or perhaps I have put Bear behind me forever. At least the way we went. It sounds like others have found an easier way to the peak though. John and I just like to add more flavor to our climbing.


So that's what I'm still picking out of my arms and legs? Flavor? :laf:

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right on guys, looks like a fun climb and solid effort. my curiousity re: that route was piqued at a Roper slideshow years ago, but i didn't follow through and it faded into the recesses of my mind. good to see someone mustering up!


a few weeks ago, i recall looking over from Tillie's Towers at that area (S side), and there are lots of craggy peaks. how high is the summit (trying to locate on the map)?

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Again thanks everyone.


About the bear: not a griz just a local black bear. Though it looks like he(?) was walking upright at the time he was on all fours... I think because we were above him on the ridge the "top view" made it look like he was walking upright.


Dr Roper was kind enough to add this one to his excellent webpage:



Now only if Blake or Sol would post their new and improved approach beta (nudge nudge) :)

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haha! i'm having too much fun climbing every day of the week out here John. a much needed respite from cascade slogging...but I'm JEALOUS as shit for the route y'all have been doing. I may get a gig that's 7 on 7 off .... so maybe I'll log some freq. flier milage :)


come out here and play in the fall

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all the beta i can really give you is the same thing that i posted earlier:


pyramid lake trail to pyramid lake

climbers trail to pyramid bivy at base of colonial glacier (i think)

up and over the colonial to the neve glacier

descend the neve to neve falls and forge a way to the base of the route


between a map and the beckey guide it should be muy facil.

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